Okanagan Winter Birding – Jan 3-5, 2020

Day 1 – I met the group of 5 intrepid birders this morning in Kelowna at 8 AM. Overnight, we’d had substantial snowfall, but during the day, conditions were perfect. We began in Okanagan Mountain Park, where after a bit of searching we had great views of a Northern Pygmy-Owl sitting up in a dead tree. Other birds noted in the park included Hairy Woodpecker, Pygmy Nuthatch, Townsend’s Solitaire, Bald Eagle, Red-tailed Hawk and a distant Red-necked Grebe.

Our next stop was at the Thomson Marshes. Here, raptors were the highlight as we saw 10 or more Red-tailed Hawks, 3 Northern Harriers, an American Kestrel and a Sharp-shinned Hawk. Other than raptors, we were quite happy to spot a Marsh Wren in the reeds.

A quick look at Wilson Creek at Bird Place did not produce the hoped for Wood Duck today unfortunately.

After a quick stop for coffee, we headed for the Maude Roxby Bird Sanctuary. In Mud Bay, we had several of each Trumpeter and Tundra swans. Gulls on the dock included

Barred Owl. Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Herring, California, Ring-billed, Glaucous-winged and Iceland gulls. Gadwall were rather numerous out on the lake as well and we scoped a distant Common Loon from here. A walk along the boardwalk was mostly uneventful, other than the sighting of a roosting Barred Owl, which was very nice to see.

At Mission Creek, we checked for a roosting Western Screech-Owl and found it nestled up to the trunk of a cedar tree. Sutherland Hills Park produced a Brown Creeper as well. En route, we drove through the Hall Road neighborhood, spotting a group of a couple of hundred Bohemian Waxwings, as well as other regular ‘feeder birds’ like California Quail, Black-capped and Mountain chickadees, House Sparrow, Eurasian Collared-Dove, Mourning Dove and more. On O’reilly Lane we saw a White-throated Sparrow, and John pointed out a White-breasted Nuthatch. Also

Western Screech-Owl. Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

along Mission Ck, right at K.L.O Road, was a male Belted Kingfisher, sitting on a telephone wire.

We then took a drive along Spiers Road, where we found an adult Northern Shrike, as well as Red-winged Blackbirds, American Crows, big flocks of European Starlings and along Gulley Road, more Bohemian Waxwings and a small group of American Robins.

Along Mission Creek near Casorso Bridge, we had good views of both Pacific Wren and Bewick’s Wren, but could not find the Winter Wren that has been in the area. Before we left the area, I headed for an old willow tree, hoping to spot our fourth owl species of the day, a Great Horned Owl. Margaret spotted the owl, tucked into the old willow tree.

To finish off the day, we headed up to Robert Lake where we waited until near dark when a single Short-eared Owl flew overhead, making for 5 owl species on our first day of the tour. At dinner we tallied up our list and finally agreed we had seen 61 species.

Day 2 – This morning we gathered in West Kelowna and then headed down to Okanagan Lake at Gellatly Bay to look for waterbirds. We were not disappointed. A large flock of

cackling goose
Cackling Goose with Canada Geese. West Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

diving ducks contained many Redheads and Greater Scaup as well as smaller numbers of Canvasback and Lesser Scaup. Also on the lake were Pied-billed and Horned grebes as well as a local winter rarity, an Eared Grebe. A few hundred Canada Geese gathered in the sheltered bay this morning and included with them was a tiny Cackling Goose. From the little bridge on Gellatly Road we looked up Powers Creek and spotted an American Dipper frolicking in the water. On the beach, we saw another uncommon winter resident in the Okanagan, a Killdeer.

We then visited a patch of woods (I won’t name the exact location), where Long-eared Owl has been seen recently. After a bit of searching we found a Long-eared tucked into the thick brush, making for our 6th species of owl on the tour. Flying south over the lake

Long-eared Owl. Okanagan Valley, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

were 5 female type Northern Pintails!

At Okanagan Lake in Penticton we scanned through a mass of gulls, mostly composed of California Gulls. Mixed in, however, were the usual Herring, Ring-billed, Glaucous-winged and Iceland gulls. Out on the lake were Red-necked Grebes, Horned Grebes and distant Common Loon. At the Esplanade Trails it was surprisingly quiet. Highlights included a male Spotted Towhees, a group of Western Bluebirds, and a Yellow-rumped Warbler.

As the sun shined on us, we searched for Canyon Wren on a cliff near Okanagan Falls. It was again very quiet here, but eventually a gorgeous Canyon Wren hopped out on the rocks and put on a nice show for us. Down at Vaseux Lake, we explored the boardwalk and the spectacular view from the viewing deck. There were about 60 swans at the north end of the lake, and most were Trumpeter Swans, though there were several Tundra

canyon wren
Canyon Wren. Okanagan Falls, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Swans present as well. Other ducks on the lake included Ring-necked Ducks, Hooded Mergansers, American Wigeon, and perhaps the same 5 female Northern Pintails that flew past us in Summerland. A Golden Eagle briefly appeared soaring over the cliffs, but disappeared rather quickly. Up at the cliffs we had a look for Chukar, but couldn’t find any. Interestingly, we saw a rattlesnake dead on the side of the road and wondered why this species would venture out of its den in January.

We drove on, arriving at our motel in Oliver just before dusk. We had a nice dinner before heading back out into the field in search of nocturnal creatures at Road 22, near Osoyoos. On a telephone wire, we spotted a Great Horned Owl as it watched quietly for

2nd winter Iceland Gull. Penticton, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

prey. Coyotes were howling in the distance all around us it seemed. I tried to call out a Northern Saw-whet Owl and within minutes we were looking at the cute little owl sitting in a bush in front of us. Owl number 7! It was a real treat to be out tonight since the weather was lovely, with mild temps, calm winds and a nice bright moon.

Day 3 – Our motel in Oliver was situated on the south end of Tucelnuit Lake, which is usually frozen solid in January. Today it was wide open, and we scanned through a large flock of several hundred Canada Geese, but could find nothing different amongst them. There were 4-5 Trumpeter Swans, as well as Hooded Merganser, Common Merganser and Common Goldeneye present. We stopped in Oliver to pick up some coffee and breakfast before making our way back to Road 22. Today there was a slight breeze that made conditions a little cooler than the previous days, but it was still quite pleasant considering it’s early January in Canada. Raptors were numerous, with excellent sightings of many Red-tailed Hawks, Bald Eagles and several Northern Harriers. A few ducks were paddling about on the open water of the oxbows, including

vaseux lk
Vaseux Lake, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Mallards, Common Goldeneye and some Ring-necked Ducks. From an overlooking viewpoint at the north end of Osoyoos Lake, we scanned the sandbar finding several Ring-billed and Herring gulls that looked uneasy as they sat relatively close to two Bald Eagles.

We then headed up into the Richter Pass, west of Osoyoos. A search for Lesser Goldfinches turned up empty handed, though we still saw a few nice birds up here including a soaring Rough-legged Hawk, several Red-breasted Nuthatches, Steller’s Jays and Mountain Chickadees. Just up the road near the Elkink Ranch we were treated to a real show as a pair of adult Golden Eagles chased a flock of 20 or more Chukar on the slope above. One Chukar sailed from the slope, at a remarkable speed, down into the sagebrush of the valley below, with an eagle hot on its tail. As far as we could tell the eagle came up empty handed, or empty-taloned should we say. At the Nighthawk Border crossing, birds were few and far between. We scanned fields near the border for Gray Partridge without any luck. An immature Cooper’s Hawk sat on a telephone pole for a few moments before slinking off into the sage.

We had lunch at Haynes Point Provincial Park as a light rain began to fall. The rain cut our visit short, but we did see a female Red-breasted Merganser out on the lake, which was a bonus for sure. An Eastern Fox Squirrel ate Russian Olives close to our vehicles in the parking lot here.

At Okanagan Falls, a short stop produced an American Dipper and several Barrow’s Goldeneye. Our final stop of the tour was at Hardy Falls in Peachland. Here, we again saw an obliging American Dipper, as well as a very shy Varied Thrush. In the end, we’d tallied 90 species over the three day trip. Thanks to John, Margaret, Joan, Dave and Frances for joining me on this New Years birding adventure.

Bird list: Cackling Goose; Canada Goose; Trumpeter Swan; Tundra Swan; Gadwall; American Wigeon; Mallard; Northern Pintail; Canvasback; Redhead; Ring-necked Duck; Greater Scaup; Lesser Scaup; Bufflehead; Common Goldeneye; Barrow’s Goldeneye; Hooded Merganser; Common Merganser; Red-breasted Merganser; California Quail; Chukar; Ring-necked Pheasant; Pied-billed Grebe; Horned Grebe; Red-necked Grebe; Eared Grebe; Rock Pigeon; Eurasian Collared-Dove; Mourning Dove; American Coot; Killdeer; Ring-billed Gull; California Gull; Herring Gull; Iceland Gull; Glaucous-winged Gull; Common Loon; Great Blue Heron; Golden Eagle; Northern Harrier; Sharp-shinned Hawk; Cooper’s Hawk; Bald Eagle; Red-tailed Hawk; Rough-legged Hawk; Western Screech-Owl; Great Horned Owl; Northern Pygmy-Owl; Barred Owl; Long-eared Owl; Short-eared Owl; Northern Saw-whet Owl; Belted Kingfisher; Downy Woodpecker; Hairy Woodpecker; Northern Flicker; Pileated Woodpecker; American Kestrel; Merlin; Northern Shrike; Steller’s Jay; Black-billed Magpie; American Crow; Common Raven; Black-capped Chickadee; Mountain Chickadee; Red-breasted Nuthatch; White-breasted Nuthatch; Pygmy Nuthatch; Brown Creeper; Canyon Wren; Pacific Wren; Marsh Wren; Bewick’s Wren; American Dipper; Western Bluebird; Townsend’s Solitaire; American Robin; Varied Thrush; European Starling; Bohemian Waxwing; House Sparrow; House Finch; American Goldfinch; Spotted Towhee; Song Sparrow; White-throated Sparrow; White-crowned Sparrow; Dark-eyed Junco; Red-winged Blackbird; Yellow-rumped Warbler.

Chris Charlesworth

Okanagan Valley Day Tour – Jan 2, 2020

On January 2, I had the pleasure of taking Paul and Annette Lloyd, from the U.K., out in the Kelowna area for a day of birding. It turned out to be a perfect day for birding, with mild temperatures, some bits of sun here and there, and it was nice and calm. We met in Rutland, as Paul and Annette were staying up at Big White. Our first destination was

N. Pygmy-Owl. Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

Okanagan Mountain Park, south of Kelowna. Not long after I finished mentioning that we should keep our eyes open for Northern Pygmy-Owls, Paul spotted one sitting on dead tree next to our vehicle! After we had enjoyed our fill of pygmy owl, we carried on, exploring the park for more birds. Some of the species we encountered included a Townsend’s Solitaire, a group of 8 Steller’s Jays, a Brown Creeper, Golden-crowned Kinglets, some Mountain Chickadees, and a single Pygmy Nuthatch. Singles of Hairy Woodpecker and Downy Woodpecker were added to the day’s list here. Raptors were numerous today and we saw several Bald Eagles and Red-tailed Hawks out in the park this morning. On the lake were Horned and Red-necked grebes and a Common Loon.

Next up, we visited the Thomson Marshes. Soon after our arrival we were treated to views of a male American Kestrel that was in the process of eating a mouse. Red-tailed Hawks were numerous here and we were treated to views of a couple of Northern Harriers as they hunted over the grassy fields. A Great Blue Heron was seen hunkered down in a water-filled ditch, and waterfowl included Mallards, two Green-winged Teal, American Wigeon, Gadwall, Common Goldeneye and Common Merganser. Weedy fields had Song Sparrows, some White-crowned Sparrows and several House Finches. Overall, it was a very productive stop.

A short stop at Wilson Creek at Bird Place produced 4 Wood Ducks, which was our target species there. We had a quick stop for coffee and comfort, and then checked out

2nd year Mew Gull. Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

Okanagan Lake from the foot of Cedar Avenue. We counted 22 Trumpeter Swans on the lake here! At the nearby Maude Roxby Bird Sanctuary we had a nice adult Cooper’s Hawk that sat in the trees for quite a while before silently disappearing. Black-capped Chickadees foraged in the trees along the boardwalk. On a dock were about 50 gulls, including Glaucous-winged, Herring, Ring-billed and 2 Mew gulls.

Barred Owl. Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

We ate our lunch along Mission Creek and then took a stroll to look for a roosting Western Screech-Owl. It didn’t take too long for us to find the owl, nestled up to the trunk of a cedar tree, in the afternoon sunlight. In addition to the owl, we saw another Downy Woodpecker here.

A visit to the Chichester Bird Sanctuary in Rutland produced a few birds we had not yet seen today, including American Robins, a Bufflehead, a Eurasian Collared-Dove and Virginia Rail, the latter of which we heard only. My friend Michael Force messaged me and told me that he had a Barred Owl roosting in his neighbor’s tree. Off we went, and about 15 minutes later we were looking at the lovely owl sitting quietly, and in plain sight.

We finished off our day watching for Short-eared Owls over a grassy field in the north end of town, and we were rewarded with seeing two of them at dusk — Chris Charlesworth

Western Screech-Owl. Kelowna, B.C. Jan 2020. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Northern Peru ~ Endemics in the Andes

Nov. 3, 2019

Our first day of the tour started with a drive south of Lima to the fishing port of Pucusana. We began with a half hour at the overlook from where we were able to enjoy our first Inca Terns, Peruvian Boobies and Peruvian Pelicans flying around as well as Red-legged Cormorants and several Humboldt’s Penguin swimming around below us. Our first endemic, a Surf Cinclodes, flew on to the rocks below us. We then went down to

Inca Tern. Pucusana, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

the port where we boarded a boat for the hour long ride around Pucusana Island. The sheer cliffs provide breeding sites for thousands of Peruvian Boobies and other seabirds and along the seaside rocks we encountered a few pairs of Blackish Oystercatchers, many Belcher’s Gulls as well as several dozen South American Sea Lions. Meanwhile, out to sea we noted a couple Wilson’s Storm-petrels foraging low over the water.

In the late morning we made a quick stop in at the Puerto Viejo marshes where we found a confiding Coastal Miner in the dunes and our first Many-colored Rush-tyrants in the reeds while a Lest Bittern gave its low call.

At mid-day we arrived at the Lomas del Asia Reserve where we had a nice field lunch prepared by our driver, the excellent Julio Benites. We then walked up the dirt road for around a kilometer or so. Bird activity was light to begin with but we spotted a Short-tailed Field-tyrant near the parking area and as we walked we noted several Oasis Hummingbirds as well as a couple Purple-collared Woodstars and Peruvian Sheartails. Near the end of our walk we encountered more bird activity including a couple endemic Thick-billed Miners, Cinereous Conebill and Band-tailed Sierra-finches. Overhead we

Many-colored Rush-tyrant. Villa Marshes, Lima, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

spotted  Black-chested Buzzard Eagles and Variable Hawks.

En route back to Lima we made one final stop at the Pantanos de Villa marshes where amid the spectacle of thousands of Franklin’s Gulls we picked out several noteworthy waterbirds like White-tufted and Great Grebes as well as several species of herons/egrets. Meanwhile, a short walk to the reeds nearby produced another Many-colored Rush-tyrant and a skulking Wren-like Rushbird.

November 4

After a morning flight to Tarapoto in the Amazonian foothills of the north of the country,
we disembarked and met up with our driver for the next 11 days, Pedro,whose skill at the wheel would be much admired as we navigated the narrow Peruvian roads. Our first stop was a half hour out of town at the Laguna Ricuricocha. Here we quickly spied our first Comb Ducks and Black-bellied Whistling-ducks on the lake itself. It was already very hot so bird activity was light but a jaunt down the road landed us some of the familiar species of lowland Amazonia such as Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Chivi Vireo and Blue Dacnis. Back

Ashy-headed Greenlet. Tarapoto, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

near the vehicle we played hide-and-seek with a difficult Flammulated Pygmy-tyrant before a pair of Ashy-headed Greenlets obligingly flew into the bushes beside us. We were pleased to pick us this latter as in Peru it only occurs here in the arid Huallaga Valley.

We arrived at our lodgings for the next two nights, the stunning Pumarinri Lodge in time for a late lunch, after which we had a bit of down time where some enjoyed a quick dip in the swimming pool! Around the lodge we spotted our first Black-fronted Nunbird, Green-backed Trogon and Gray-breasted Sabrewing. At 3:30 pm we reconvened and took the bus to bird our way along the road, heading eastward. Our first stop, for a flock of feeding Cobalt-winged Parakeets gave us a surprise Short-billed Honeycreeper along with our only Yellow-browed Sparrow of the trip. Further along, at our main destination we waited out a brief shower before bird activity picked up. A couple Magpie Tanagers flew in, we spotted our first Gilded Barbet of the trip and a Swallow-winged

Purple-throated Cotinga. Pumarinri Lodge, Tarapoto, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Puffbird sallied out from its perch above the canopy. We had a target in mind though, as one of the lodge staff had told Wilson that Purple-throated Cotinga was feeding in the area. As luck would have it, Wilson spotted a male fly in to the trees down the road and we soon were enjoying nice scope views of this tricky Cotinga! After dinner back at the lodge a few of us went owling but we only heard distant Crested Owl and Tropical Screech-owl.

November 5

After an early breakfast at the lodge we drove the 1 hour to the Cordillera Escalera, north of Tarapoto. The slopes here hold a whole suite of difficult specialties and we started out at the El Mono y La Gata Restaurant where we got our first looks at Paradise and Yellow-bellied Tanager and Black-faced Dacnis. A short walk up the road produced a small mixed flock that held many Carmiol’s Tanager along with a confiding Ivory-billed

Ivory-billed Aracari. Tarapoto, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

(brown-billed subspecies) Aracari.

A few stops along the road heading up to and beyond “El Tunel”, a well-known birding area, provided us with a couple more pockets of activity where we found Peruvian Tyrannulets, a Cliff Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Euphonia, Yellow-crested Tanager and an Inambari Woodcreeper feeding young. Overhead we enjoyed two circling Swallow-tailed Kites. Unfortunately the hoped for Plumbeous Euphonia and Dotted Tanager never materialized despite trying a couple spots Wilson knew for each.

At mid-day we arrived at the ACONABIKH Koepcke’s Hermit reserve. After a packed lunch we walked up to the hummingbird feeders, finding our first Short-crested and Sulphury Flycatchers and hearing Firey-capped Manakin. The feeders themselves were abuzz with gems such as Gould’s Jewelfront, Golden-tailed Sapphire and White-necked Jacobin. After about 20 minutes the star of the show came in, the endemic Koepcke’s Hermit. It made a few passes and showed much better than when I was here last year. A couple Blue-fronted Lancebills added to the show. Once sated with the hummingbird

Golden-headed Manakin. Tarapoto, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

show we walked one of the trail for about 700m up to a lek of Golden-headed Manakins. En route we encountered virtually no bird life but after enjoying several of the manakins at close quarters we started wandering back and soon found a big mixed-species canopy flock. Green-and-gold and Yellow-backed Tanagers came down to a fruiting tree over the trail and a beautiful Fulvous Shrike-tanager made a brief appearance. After some initial frustration we eventually all had multiple good looks at a couple White-throated Woodpeckers. Dusky-capped Greenlet and an obliging White-necked Thrush added to the fun.

Back at the lodge some of us saw a Tropical Screech-owl as it left its roost site near the dining area. Overnight several of us were also awoken by a calling Black-banded Owl.

November 6

After breakfast we bade the Pumarinri Lodge adios and headed south of Tarapoto to the arid Upaquihua valley. Our first stop was along the side of the highway at a pull-out where we spotted our only Yellow-headed Caracara of the trip and a showy male Rusty-backed Antwren. The next few hours were spent birding along a little used road where we found Ashy-headed Greenlet, Barred Antshrike, Chestnut-eared Aracari and our first Green Jays of the trip. Some also got on a Hook-billed Kite that was perched up beside the road. After a bit of searching we found a little side trail that Wilson knew. Fending off a fair few mosquitoes we found a small mixed flock that included a Lafresnaye’s Piculet and a Stripe-chested Antwren, that unfortunately disappeared before most in the group could get on it. Just up ahead we found a trio of Northern Slaty-Antshrikes of the endemic huallagae subspecies, our target on this trail. Alas, another main target, the Planalto Hermit remained elusive. Back on the main highway we gassed up at a petrol station where Wilson knew a couple hundred Sand-colored Nighthawks roost!

Backtracking to Tarapoto we had an excellent lunch in the shaded courtyard of a

White-eyed Parakeets. Tarapoto, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

beautiful restaurant that had a small garden with several flowering orchids. In the afternoon we transferred to Moyobamba with one birding stop at the Quiscarrumi bridge where we delighted in the spectacle of a couple dozen Oilbirds in the narrow canyon below us. Here we also had good photo opportunities of White-eyed Parakeets and witnessed the interactions between Russet-backed Oropendolas and the nest-parasite Giant Cowbird at a nesting colony of the former.

We arrived at the Waquanki Lodge outside Moyobamba in time to spend 45 minutes in the gardens where some of the group got to view a stunning male Rufous-crested Coquette feeding on the verbena along with a couple Violet-headed Hummingbirds. A group of Turquoise Tanagers also put in an appearance, our only ones of the trip as it would turn out.

November 7

We awoke to steady rain that, unfortunately, persisted through most of the morning into early afternoon. After breakfast we decided to spend some time under the pavilion in the
garden where we could watch the verbena and shrubs nearby with a roof over our heads. Here we encountered our first endemic Black-bellied Tanagers along with Sapphire-spangled Emerald and a couple female Amethyst Woodstars though not the hoped for Coquette. Meanwhile a couple Lettered Aracaris’ came in to feed in a nearby cecropia. With little indication that the rain was letting up we opted to walk up to the

Black-faced Dacnis. Koepcke’s Hermit Reserve, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

hummingbird feeders, which also have a two level covered viewing area. Here we enjoyed similar species as at the Koepcke’s Hermit reserve with the addition of a Great-billed Hermit and White-chinned Sapphire. The trees around the feeders had a few birds passing through and we enjoyed point-blank views of Black-faced Dacnis as well as a brief Pale-breasted Thrush and a fine male Swallow Tanager. A Tataupa Tinamou called from the forest nearby.

A brief break in the rain mid-morning prompted us to attempt the Quebrada Mishquiyaquillo trail behind the lodge. As we set out we got nice looks at a Little Woodpecker and scoped a Blue-winged Parrotlet. Further up the trail we encountered a couple Blue-crowned Trogons. Unfortunately the rain started to pick up as we entered the forest proper and though we valiantly tried to wait it out it was evident that bird activity was virtually nil so we started making our way back to the lodge. Back in the plantations along the first section of the track we encountered a batch of birds though they were mainly the standard fare of Black-billed Thrushes, Summer and Scarlet Tanagers etc. We did spot our only Yellow-green Vireo and Chestnut-crowned Becard of the trip here though. Quite sodden we spent what remained of the morning watching the gardens again and we at last got to enjoy prolonged looks at a Rufous-crested Coquette though it was a somewhat less spectacular female.

In the mid-afternoon we drove out to the nearby Morro Calzada, a patch of white-sands
forest west of Moyobamba. The birds were very quiet throughout our visitand the lone highlight was a small troupe of Saddle-backed Tamarins beside the road. After this we made an unsuccessful attempt at finding roosting Stygian Owl and Common Potoo at the local botanical gardens en route back to the lodge.

November 8

With an 1.5 hour drive ahead of us to get to the Arena Blanca Reserve we departed at 4:30am with a packed breakfast. On the short walk in to the reserve we spotted a couple
Paradise Tanagers and a Wing-barred Pipirites. While we ate our breakfast we enjoyed a couple female Wire-crested Thorntails at the flowering Verbena bushes nearby. At 7am

Little Tinamous. Arena Blanca Reserve, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

we quietly made our way to the Tinamou feeding station blind where we were able to view, at point blank range, a pair of Orange-billed Sparrows, White-tipped Doves and two different Little Tinamous with chicks. After this we spent some time at the hummingbird feeders picking up our first Many-spotted Hummingbirds and Sparkling Violetear. In the trees around the clearing we spotted a couple Speckled Chachalacas and a few tanagers including Magpie and Yellow-bellied.

As we birded our way out of the reserve mid-morning we at last connected with a beautiful male Fiery-capped Manakin that returned a few times to a perch, visible through only a couple small windows in the foliage. Unfortunately the Zimmer’s Antbird that we tried to call in was quite a ways away and did not seem interested in approaching.

In short order we had reached the foothills of the eastern Andes and we started our curvy ascent. We made a stop at La Llanteria, a little convenience store where the family have a couple half-hearted hummingbird feeders and some trails where we picked up a Green Hermit. A short walk down the road landed us a decent-sized mixed flock, unfortunately most of which was a little ways back off the road and back-lit. Still, we picked out a nice Smokey-brown Woodpecker, Canada Warbler and Streaked Xenops though only Avery got on the pair of Versicolored Barbets.

Back in the vehicle we carried on up to the Abra Patricia Lodge where, at 2300m

Emerald-bellied Puffleg. Abra Patricia Lodge, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

elevation, we would encounter a whole new suite of birds over the next couple days! After a late lunch we spent some time at the hummingbird feeders where we were awed by our first Emerald-bellied Pufflegs, Amethyst-throated Sunangels, Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Long-tailed Sylphs and an amazing Sword-billed hummingbird. In the late afternoon we birded around the premises picking up Drab Hemispingus, Grass-green Tanager and Streaked Tuftedcheek in a small mixed flock. A flock of Barred Parakeets screeched overhead and we spotted a Short-tailed Hawk soaring over the ridge before heading back to the lodge for another wonderful dinner.

November 9

For our full day at Abra Patricia we started off birding around the premises of the lodge with one of our first birds being the diminutive endemic Johnson’s (Lulu’s) Tody-Flycatcher flitting about in the tree ferns below us. We were hoping to encounter the mixed flock that usually passes by the lower buildings/parking area but it never really seemed to form though we spotted a few of the regulars like Green-and-black Fruiteater, Russet-crowned Warbler and Beryl-spangled Tanager.

At 8am we joined the forest guard at the Antpitta feeding station where he put out the worms for the Chestnut and Rusty-tinged Antpittas. Alas, despite a 45 minute vigil we were not graced with the good fortune of either species coming in. For the remainder of

Chestnut-breasted Coronets. Abra Patricia Lodge, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

the morning we walked the Tino trail through beautiful humid montane forest. A couple nice mixed canopy flocks yielded our first stunning Flame-faced and Silvery Tanagers along with other common species like Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet, Streak-necked Flycatcher, Capped Conebill, Bluish and White-sided Flowerpiercers. In the dense chusquea bamboo we eventually got good looks at a Streak-headed Antbird.

After lunch we enjoyed the hummingbirds again before walking the 200m up to the canopy tower. While activity was minimal for our mid-afternoon visit we enjoyed the view and a confiding Pale-edged Flycatcher along with scope views of Masked Flowerpiercer. As we made our way down we watched a pair of Variable Antshrikes come in to investigate us. After this we made our way across the main road to a different trail with the goal of birding our way up to a point where White-throated Screech-owl is regular. Amid some light rain we encountered few birds but did get a nice pair of Mountain Wrens. While Wilson and the group stayed until dusk and ultimately heard the Screech-owl calling several times below them I backtracked to the lodge to do some owling with Marg and Ed, who had stayed back. As I rounded a corner near the Antpitta feeding station I startled a Chestnut Antpitta from the trail. Our owling efforts were ultimately met with silence.

November 10

Hoping for better bird activity at the nearby Fundo Alto Nieva we departed the lodge after a 5:15 stakeout of a female Swallow-tailed Nightjar by the dining area and another nice breakfast.

Once there, we were informed that they had recently changed the Antpitta feeding schedule and now both species are fed in the afternoon. With this in mind we simply birded along one for the trails for a little while, eventually getting views of a shy Cinnamon-breasted Tody-flycatcher and a White-backed Fire-eye. Surprisingly, the forest
was even quieter than the day before at Abra Patricia so we decided to head to the hummingbird feeders for a bit where we were delighted to find several male Royal Sunangels putting on a show alongside Violet-fronted Brilliants, Booted Racket-tails (only females oddly) and a few Greenish Pufflegs. A responsive Bar-winged Wood-wren made a quick appearance for some of the group before we left.

Royal Sunangel. Abra Patricia, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

For the latter part of the morning we birded the roadside back down towards El Afluente, where we at last encountered a large mixed flock. After watching them move through the canopy about 100m down the road from us they dropped down towards us and eventually came right over us on the upslope side of the road! Alas, our luck hadn’t completely changed for the better for at this point a heavy rain started falling making picking through the flock and pointing birds out rather more difficult. Still, we enjoyed several new species for the trip like a pair of endemic Inca Flycatchers, Bronze-green Euphonia and Blue-winged Mountain-tanager while, unfortunately, both the Orange-eared and Yellow-throated Tanagers were only picked out by Avery.

After lunch we returned to Fundo Alto Nieva for the Antpitta feeding. We made our way along the trail about 800m to the Rusty-tinged Antpitta site where, after just a few minutes, one came in, grabbed a couple worms from each of the two feeding areas and hopped off to start calling vigorously. Delighted after our Antpitta-less experience

Ochre-fronted Antpitta. Fundo Alto Nieva, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

yesterday we backtracked a couple hundred metres to the Ochre-fronted Antpitta feeding spot. Here a pair were waiting for us when we arrived! Showing absolutely no concern for us they came in to within a metre or two before Tony, the forest guard, had even put out the worms! We enjoyed these beauties for about 15 minutes before they hopped off.

With a bit of time to kill before dusk and our subsequent owling we called in a Rufous-vented Tapaculo that eventually showed for some of the group. At last it was dark and we had reached one of the most anticipated moments of the trip as Tony started playback for the near mythical Long-whiskered Owlet. This species was discovered in 1976 but remained essentially unknown until 2007 when it was spotted again by rangers working in this area. Now it is possible to find here at Alto Nieva as well as in the lower parts of the Abra Patricia reserve. However, the trail at Abra Patricia had

Rusty-tinged Antpitta. Fundo Alto Nieva, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

recently been cut away by a landslide so this was our one shot. Unfortunately, despite trying in two spots, tonight would not be our night for this elusive creature and we had to make do with an only slightly more responsive Cinnamon Screech-owl that gave a couple distant trills in response to our playback before falling quiet.

November 11

Leaving Abra Patricia after breakfast, we started westward, making our first stop up the Rio Chido road after a little more than an hour of driving. Here we spotted our first White-bellied Hummingbird in the gardens of a restaurant before walking down the road through patches of forest and cleared land. We soon came upon a nice mixed flock that included our first Montane Woodcreeper, Barred Becard, Brown-capped Vireos and the white-bellied form of Superciliaried Hemispingus. Along the Rio Chido we spotted a couple Torrent Tyrannulets while a pair of Smoke-colored Pewees attended a nest across the road.

Carrying on, we arrived at the famous Huembo Reserve shortly before 10am. After a little birding around the buildings to try to pick up Speckle-chested Piculet (unsuccessfully) we moved over to the hummingbird feeder setup. Here we were treated to a couple spectacular male Marvelous Spatuletails, along with at least one female. These bizarre products of rampant sexual selection are critically endangered and this

Male Marvelous Spatuletail. Huembo, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

small reserve protects one of just a couple sites where this species occurs. Andean Emeralds and a brief Green-fronted Lancebill did their best to vie for our attention in between visits by the Spatuletails.

Mesmerized by this incredible bird, we had a very nice lunch before continuing on down into the spectacular Utcumbamba Valley. The road winds along steep, arid slopes and between rocky canyons before arriving at the more level, and slightly wider main valley bottom. Amid the canyons we spotted our first couple Peruvian Pigeons. A stop along a side road in the mid-afternoon was fairly birdy though neither of the hoped for Speckle-chested Piculet or Maranon Crescentchest were detected. We did find some nice Buff-bellied Tanagers and a surprise pair of Black-capped Sparrows of the “Marañon” subspecies. Back on the road we made stops along the river for Fasciated Tiger-heron and White-capped Dipper.

Our final roadside stop of the afternoon failed to produce the hoped for Piculet, but we did note a fair bit of activity including a fine Golden-rumped Euphonia in a clump of mistletoe. Closer at hand was a calling Chestnut-crowned Antpitta that surprised us by hopping up into view, unprompted by us, and giving an alarm call for several minutes, clearly there was a snake or something that had got it agitated. A few other birds came into to investigate as well including a couple female Canada Warblers.

Shortly after dark we rolled into Leymabamba and the fine Hotel La Casona where we
enjoyed another hearty dinner and a good night’s sleep.

November 12

With heavy cloud cover visible on the peaks around us we enjoyed a bit of birding off the back patio of the Hotel La Casona after breakfast where there was a surprising amount of activity. Our first Line-cheeked (Baron’s) Spinetail, Golden Grosbeak and Rusty Flowerpiercer were a treat to see before we started our way up the windy mountain

Rainbow Starfrontlet. Leymebamba, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

road towards Celendin. After a half hour or so we spotted a beautiful bush covered in blue flowers beside the road and on a whim decided to stop. This ended up providing us with one of the most memorable bits of birding on the whole tour as here we enjoyed several Purple-throated Sunangels, Rainbow Starfrontlets and Shining Sunbeams at close quarters, providing us with excellent photo opportunities. The icing on the cake came when a Sword-billed Hummingbird joined the fray! A pair of Mountain Caracaras nesting on the cliff behind us was a nice addition as well. Further along we picked up a cute Leymebamba Antpitta, at its usual stakeout and another five minutes up the road we walked down a little side-track where we knew we could count on finding the classy Moustached Flowerpiercer. We got nice looks at this species in due course and also found Tufted Tit-tyrant, Gray-breasted Mountain-toucan and Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager. The undoubted highlight though was a responsive Yungas Pygmy-owl that had been calling when we arrived. It only took a couple bouts of playback for it to come in and perch on an exposed snag for a few minutes from where it continued calling! Unfortunately this was our last chance at Yellow-scarfed Tanager and, after a no-show at Abra Patricia, this was one we would miss.

Sword-billed Hummingbird. Leymebamba, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Carrying on towards the pass we made a stop for Coppery Metaltail but only came up with a confiding White-chinned Thistletail. At 3600m at the Calla Calla pass we made a brief stop for Neblina Tapaculo which most eventually got looks at as it skulked at the base of a bush below us. The stunning blue wings of a Great Sapphirewing were a hit as one foraged briefly downslope of us. Alas, the Coppery Metaltail would also go down as a miss, this would not be our day for endemics unfortunately.

Descending down towards the arid Marañon Valley we arrived at our lunch stop where we met Carlos (Wilson’s brother) and Julio (nephew-in-law) who were just finishing preparing us what would be a truly stellar lunch that included a seared ham, fried eggplant, mixed sautéed vegetables, fresh avocado and even olives! Somehow we managed to get up and do a little birding after this feast but unfortunately the Chestnut-backed Thornbirds that responded to our tape remained well downslope of us though we got quick looks at a Mouse-colored Tyrannulet of the “Marañon” subspecies. Back in the van we made a brief stop a little further down where we picked up our fist Spot-throated Hummingbird. Having descended down to 900m elevation at the valley bottom itself we made a stop the other side of the village of Balsas for the endemic Yellow-faced Parrotlet. Again, luck was against us as when we arrived we realized that there had been a mudslide the day before that made the mostly-dry streambed we would have walked up impassable. We were able to walk up the near side of the stream a little ways and scan the cactus across from us but again, we would dip on our target. Our final stop of the day, as dusk was arriving was more rewarding however, as a Gray-winged Inca-finch was singing as we stepped out of the bus. In short order we were enjoying scope views of this
extremely local endemic. A final attempt at the Chestnut-backed Thornbird again only elicited a couple distant responses. After summiting another pass, in the dark, we arrived at Celendin after another long and bird-filled day.

November 13

After a somewhat noisy night at the hotel in Celendin we departed for another day of birding our way westward with a shorter drive to our destination of Cajamarca. Our first birding stop at a remnant patch of forest produced a pair of the hoped for Jelski’s Chat-tyrants while a little further along we spotted our first Andean Gull flying alongside us.

Jelski’s Chat-tyrant. Celendin, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Another stop held more activity and here we spotted several Yellow-breasted Brushfinches of the “Baron’s” subspecies along with some Cinereous Conebills, Black-crested Warblers and Andean Flickers. A Golden-billed Saltator and Red-crested Cotinga were nice finds and we enjoyed a low pass over by a Sharp-shinned Hawk. Our main target though was the Rufous Antpitta of the endemic “Cajamarca” subspecies, a sure split eventually. We got two different birds to respond and approach us but both stayed out of site unfortunately. Consolation was a nice Gray-browed Brushfinch. Continuing to gain elevation we stopped for a White-tailed Shrike-tyrant perched on the powerline beside the road. It was joined by our first of a few Rufous-webbed Bush-tyrant as well. Next stop was at a patch of puna and rock-strewn agricultural land. Here we found a pair of Cream-winged Cinclodes, Peruvian Sierra-finches and a Paramo Pipit that afforded us nice scope views atop a rock. A Variable Hawk circled fairly low over us before we hopped back aboard the bus.

At La Encañada we were hoping for the tricky Plain-tailed Warbling-finch but, arriving late morning as we were there was little activity about and we had to make do with a Rufous-chested Tanager and our first Black-throated Flowerpiercers.

Arriving in Cajamarca at noon we made our way to Diez seafood restaurant, owned by Julio, our roadside chef of the day before. Here we delighted in ceviche, fried fish and a seafood rice dish along with the obligatory pisco sours. Refreshed and refuelled we got right back to birding as construction along the road up the Rio Chonta (our birding site for the afternoon) meant that traffic was only allowed to pass through heading up the valley between 1-2pm. Unfortunately this meant we were there in the quieter period of the afternoon but there was not much to be done. The main target here is the critically endangered endemic Gray-bellied Comet. Once we arrived we soon found an endemic Black Metaltail and a pair of White-winged Cinclodes. A male Grey-bellied Comet was briefly spotted by Avery as it zipped up over the ridgeline but that would be the only sniff of this rare bird that we would get. A couple Giant Hummingbirds put in appearances as we searched, as did a Streak-necked Bush-tyrant.

Heading back down the valley we returned to Cajamarca for a little afternoon shopping and sightseeing before checking in to our hotel out in a quiet area on the outskirts of the city.

November 14

Carlos and Julio were awaiting our arrival as we pulled up to a nice patch of arid scrub outside Jesus, about 1 hour Southeast of Cajamarca. As they put the finishing touches on breakfast we quickly got on our top target, an endemic Great Spinetail that was calling

Giant Spinetail. Jesus, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

regularly just downslope of us. After a nice breakfast eaten in snatches between birding that included our first scope views of an endemic Buff-bridled Inca-finch, we walked a little ways up the road to where we got on a fine pair of White-winged Black-tyrants. Backtracking down the road we scoped another Inca-finch before spotting our last target a female Black-necked Woodpecker perched atop a cactus. Our first Chiguanco Thrush of the trip was spotted feeding actively on the ground nearby.

After passing back through Cajamarca we proceeded west again to the pass at Abra Gavilan. Shortly after cresting the pass we made a few stops in some scrubby habitat with the goal of finding two tricky endemics, Rufous-backed Inca-finch and Unicolored Tapaculo. Alas, despite our best efforts we could not drum up either. We did find our first Green-tailed Trainbearer, Yellow-billed Tit-tyrant and Ash-breasted Sierra-finch though.

Pressing on we arrived at a little side road above San Pablo where we again met up with Carlos and Julio who this time had prepared another fine lunch for us. A calling Elegant

Black-necked Woodpecker. Jesus, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Crescentchest remained elusive but we picked up our first Collared Antshrike and Fasciated Wrens, while a Piura Chat-tyrant, one of the most localized and difficult endemics on this trip was brilliant to find flitting about in the bushes below us.

The afternoon was spent making the long drive down to Chiclayo where we arrived around 7pm. En route we noted our first Lesser Nighthawks when we pulled into a gas station for a pit stop.

November 15

By this point we were getting quite used to being spoiled by Carlos and Julio and we met them at the entrance to the Bosque Pomac Reserve for another fresh-cooked field breakfast. Long-tailed Mockingbirds, Croaking Ground-doves and Saffron Finches kept us company until it was time again to hop into the van for a short drive over to the Cortaramma (local name for The Peruvian Plantcutter) trail. As the name suggests, our

Peruvian Plantcutter. Chiclayo, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

top target this morning was the endemic Peruvian Plantcutter, one of only a few dry habitat members of the cotinga family. We were immediately greeted by our first White-tailed Jays and soon were enjoying Pacific Parrotlets, Necklaced Spinetails, Superciliated Wrens, Grey-and-white Tyrannulets and Collared Warbling-finches. Our first of several Scarlet-backed Woodpeckers soon followed as well as the endemic Rufous Flycatcher. A Pair of Cinereous Finches passed through before finally, a Plantcutter flew by. We soon had nice views of a male that ended up posing on a couple different perches for us! With pretty much everything we could hope for in the bag we walked down the road a little ways finding our first Parrot-billed Seedeater. Driving on in the van we arrived at an area of sandy dunes where Tumbes Swallows nest. It only took us a few minutes before three of these rare swallows were flying around over our heads and we noted their diagnostic white rumps. As we left here a pair of Peruvian Thick-knees were a nice parting gift.

Another fine field lunch downed and a little bit of shopping at the visitors centre complete we made the three hour transfer to the Chaparri Reserve, picking up our local guide Daniel along the way. We arrived in time for a little bit of birding before dark and started it off investigating some birds scolding and mobbing what ended up being a small Peruvian Boa! In attendance were Superciliated Wrens, Tropical Parula, Collared Antshrike, Golden Grosbeak and our first White-edged Oriole. A Baird’s Flycatcher was also spotted before dusk sent us back to our rooms to freshen up before dinner. After dinner Daniel took us up the trail a couple minutes from the lodge and here we called in a West Peruvian Screech-owl which flew in very close but unfortunately took off as soon as the light was put on it. Luckily it came back in again, though not as clearly visible amongst the fairly dense branches.

November 16

We started the morning off with a couple White-winged Guans, the reserve’s flagship bird, perched up on top of one of the buildings. No need to worry about getting this critically endangered cracid! After breakfast we spent 45 minutes at the little pond below the dining area watching the hummingbirds gathering to bathe and hawk insects. The Purple-collared Woodstars were the most common species but we also spotted our first Long-billed Starthroat, a female Peruvian Sheartail and the stars of the show, Short-tailed Woodstar and Tumbes Hummingbird.

At Daniel’s recommendation we decided to spend the bulk of the morning at the Tinajones Reservoir, 45 minutes’ drive from the reserve. Enroute we stopped for a flock of 30 or so Sulphur-throated Finches and more Parrot-billed Seedeaters in a particularly arid patch of scrub. At the reservoir itself we arrived to a vista of open water and

Amazilia Hummingbird. Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

shoreline with birds aplenty in attendance. Several hundred Neotropical Cormorants loafed on some islands to our left and we soon spotted 10 of the endangered local population of Black-faced Ibis on the near shore. Wood Storks and several species of Herons and Egrets, along with Slate-colored Coots and Common Gallinules foraged along these shores and Daniel picked out a perched Savannah Hawk. A walk out towards the water off to our right gave us a couple Short-tailed Field-tyrants and Collared Plovers as well as Burrowing Owls at their burrow.

Feeling that we had seen what there was to see in this area we hopped back in the vehicle and drove around to the other side of the bay from where we were better able to view the largest congregation of waterfowl. Comb Duck, White-cheeked Pintail and at least one Yellow-billed Pintail were soon scoped before we walked over to the edge of the reedbeds. A try for Plumbeous Rail was unsuccessful but we did find our only Chestnut-throated Seedeaters of the trip and a pair of Many-colored Rush-tyrants. Walking back to the vehicle we spotted two Peruvian Thick-knees that posed for photos.

Tinajones Reservoir, Peru. November 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Back at Chaparri there was good activity around the building and we continued birding immediately after lunch and most of the group got nice looks at a soaring King Vulture as well as Elegant Crescentchest and Ochre-bellied Dove (those who didn’t see these latter two now got them later in the afternoon!). A couple Gray-and-gold Warblers flitted about the undergrowth as well. The grain feeders by the dining area brought in Tumbes

Spectacled Bear. Chaparri, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Sparrow and, as with yesterday, we were alerted to the presence of another small Peruvian Boa by the scolding of several birds nearby. Around 3:30 we walked up the track that leads to the enclosures that hold a few Spectacled Bears that are part of rehab efforts on the part of the reserve. Apparently there are around 40 wild Spectacled Bears in the reserve, the highest density in the world! Still, we were surprised to see a wild Spectacled Bear feeding in one of the trees beside the bear enclosures when we arrived! It eventually clambered down the tree and proceeded to pace back and forth beside the enclosure, clearly interested in the occupant who seemed equally curious. Bouyed by this incredible sighting we continued birding and soon Daniel Spotted an Andean Tinamou slink away through the undergrowth. Fortunately it didn’t go far and we were able to call it back in for nice

Tumbes Sparrow. Chaparri, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels

views! We met less success with Tumbes Tyrant later on though as, despite Daniel hearing one calling softly and a brief glimpse of it as it sallied up, it remained elusive in the fairly thick vegetation. Our only other new species for the afternoon was a couple Bran-colored Flycatchers of the tumbes “Mouse-gray” subspecies.

November 17

Our final day of the tour was spent at middle elevations above the reserve, near the community of Casupe. We left Chaparri after breakfast, only stopping for a Peruvian Pygmy-owl that Daniel spotted from the moving bus! After a bit more than an hour we had arrived and it was nice stepping out in the slightly cooler mountain air, though this would not last long! The birding started with a bang as Wilson was immediately able to

Ecuadorian Trogon. Casupe, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

call in a beautiful Ecuadorian Trogon that was briefly joined by its mate. Our good fortune continued as we were able to pull in a Gray-breasted Flycatcher, one of the trickier Tumbes specialties. Some heavy machinery idling beside the nearby stream meant that we couldn’t hear if there were any Gray-chinned Hermits singing in their usual area so we moved a little ways up the road. Here Daniel heard an Ecuadorian Piculet and we soon had it only a few metres from us and offering itself for some nice photo opportunities! Down below we spotted our only Three-banded Warbler of the day and this was soon followed by White-winged Brushfinch and a Tschudi’s Nightjar that only Rick and Daniel saw as it flushed off a rock. A male Chapman’s Antshrike showed nicely for us as did an unprompted Speckle-breasted Wren. Unfortunately neither of the target Foliage-gleaners, Henna-hooded or Rufous-necked would be so obliging.

Driving up the road a ways, to a low pass produced the hoped for Black-cowled Saltator that eventually was spotted perched up in an isolated tree, affording nice scope views. Harris’s and Zone-tailed Hawks were spotted overhead while our only Pacific Elaenia of the trip broke the doldrums that had come with the heat of late morning. Driving a ways back down the road we met up with Carlos and Julio for our final field lunch, a local dish

Ecuadorian Piculet. Casupe, Peru. Nov 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

called “Locro” that is made with a specific herb that apparently grows commonly in the mountains. We gave one last try for Guayaquil Woodpecker which had been eluding us all morning but given the time of day and the heat it was unsurprising that we came up empty handed. Daniel had one last stakeout for Tumbes Tyrant for us as we started back towards the Chiclayo airport. We could hear the Tumbes Tyrants calling and we had a couple false alarms but similar to the day before, they would not approach. Still, this could not put a damper on what had been a fine last morning of birding. At the airport we said our goodbyes to Wilson, Carlos and Julio who would all be driving back to Cajamarca where they live and after our flight back to Lima most of us had a final airport dinner together before catching our various flights home.

We had a superb two weeks in this spectacular part of the world and Wilson, and his company Green Tours, deserves enormous praise for his excellent organizing and the top-notch treatment we received, in particular with regards to the field meals! A year seems like a long time to wait but I am already looking forward to returning for the 2020 iteration of this tour!

Avery Bartels

Happy birders atop the ‘canopy tower’ at Abra Patricia, Peru. Nov 2019.

British Columbia ~ The Okanagan Valley ~ September 8 to 11, 2019

September 8  – I met Julie and Neil, a couple from the U.K. at Canada Place, in downtown Vancouver at 9:30 this morning. It was a wet morning in Vancouver, which is not an uncommon occurrence. We quickly left the city and headed east via the Trans Canada Highway, stopping in at Chilliwack to pick up some food for lunch. The next stop was at Manning Park, where we explored the Alpine Meadows Road. It rained for the entire time we were there, so we mostly birded from the vehicle. We did make a stop at Cascade Lookout, where the rain slowed down for a few moments, allowing us to see some birds. In the spruce trees were some very attractive Red-breasted Nuthatches moving about, alongside a lifer for Julie and Neil, Mountain Chickadees. Down a hill, we could barely make out a Townsend’s Solitaire as it perched atop a tree in some fairly dense fog. We really wanted to see a Sooty Grouse, so we drove up to the top of the road, which must be 1600 meters elevation or so. Just where we had to turn around, a large grouse appeared at the side of the grouse. ‘Sooty Grouse’, I shouted, and we watched for ten minutes or so, as the bird, a male, picked at the vegetation in the rain. On our way back down the road, we found another male Sooty Grouse, this one a younger bird. Success! As an added bonus, the foul weather had brought some migrants down, including White-crowned Sparrows, Yellow-rumped (Audubon’s) Warblers, and a group of 7 Horned Larks! Back down at the Manning Park Lodge, we had lunch in the vehicle, to keep dry. The rain let up enough for us to venture off to use the facilities, and along the way we were rewarded sightings of Steller’s Jay and Clark’s Nutcracker.

From Manning Park we carried on east, following the Similkameen River through the town of Princeton. Between Princeton and Keremeos we paused to see a young Osprey in a nest. The bird appeared large enough it could fish on its own, but that didn’t stop it from begging loudly, presumably to get its parents attention. Also noted in some of the hayfields here were Red-tailed Hawk, Black-billed Magpie and a few little groups of Brewer’s Blackbirds. Certainly the mammal sighting of the day was a Black Bear that was ambling along the shore of the Similkameen River near Keremeos. Eurasian Collared-Doves were seen on the telephone wires as we drove through the Keremeos region, a species that has only arrived in B.C. relatively recently.

We arrived in Osoyoos and checked in at our hotel. Twenty minutes later we were off again, this time for a little late afternoon birding at Haynes Point Provincial Park. As soon as we arrived we were inundated with Yellow-rumped Warblers. Mixed in with the warblers was a Ruby-crowned Kinglet, and a Warbling Vireo. Western Tanager was also a nice migrant to get here. Overhead were many Violet-green Swallows, with the odd Barn Swallow mixed in. American Robins hopped about nearby, and we were quite excited to see a little group of California Quail on the trail ahead. Some light tapping in a tree led us to a lovely little male Downy Woodpecker that was feeding at eye level. We also saw several ‘Red-shafted’ Northern Flickers in the park. Out on the lake were several American Coots, as well as Horned, Red-necked and a group of Western Grebes. We saw an Eastern Fox Squirrel here, a species that was apparently introduced into Washington State and has made its way into the South Okanagan in British Columbia. We got into the vehicle just in time, as it began to rain rather steadily. We enjoyed a nice dinner this evening, at the Wildfire Grill.

September 9 – This morning we headed north of Osoyoos to Road 22, where we enjoyed a couple hours of excellent birding. During the time we spent here we tallied over 60 species, many of which were migrating and present in significant numbers. Perhaps the most numerous migrants this morning, were Yellow-rumped (Audubon’s) Warblers, followed up by White-crowned Sparrows, Lincoln’s Sparrows, Orange-crowned Warblers and Violet-green Swallows. Amongst the hordes of yellow-rumps, we had some Common Yellowthroats as well as nice male Yellow Warbler. Some of the real highlights here included a great sighting of a Yellow-breasted Chat, somewhat unexpected this late in the season, and a nice view of both Bewick’s Wren and Marsh Wren and a good view of a Red-naped Sapsucker. A Belted Kingfisher uttered its rattle call as it flew past, and overhead, Vaux’s Swifts mingled with the swallows. A Clay-colored Sparrow popped in and out of view at the edge of the road, and we saw several Song Sparrows as well. Gray Catbirds ‘meowed’ from the vegetation and occasionally popped into view. As far as raptors are concerned, we had a nice female Northern Harrier, as well as a Merlin, several Red-tailed Hawks, a Sharp-shinned Hawk and some Ospreys. Neil and Julie’s lifer Hooded Merganser, a female, was on a pond next to the dyke, along with our first American Wigeon of the trip. At the north end of Osoyoos Lake, we spotted Common Loon, Red-necked Grebe and California Gull with the scope. Feeling quite fortunate to have had good weather and superb birding, we headed into Osoyoos to pick up some lunch.

Our next stop was in the Richter Pass, west of Osoyoos at Kruger Mountain Road. Here, we hoped to see some Lesser Goldfinches. They made me work, but the goldfinches were eventually seen, a male and a female, feeding on seed heads next to the road. We also saw several American Goldfinches as well, for comparison. Another highlight at this location was an abundance of Western Bluebirds, many of which were speckled young birds, and several of which were gorgeous adult males. Again, Yellow-rumped Warblers were everywhere, as were White-crowned Sparrows. Lincoln’s Sparrows were particularly numerous at most locations today as well. Cassin’s Finches appeared on fenceposts on one or two occasions, and we also saw Pine Siskin, more Say’s Phoebes, and some Horned Larks overhead. There were perhaps a few hundred Violet-green Swallows here, lining the telephone wires. We heard a flock of Evening Grosbeaks, but they remained unseen.

We made a short stop at Conifryd Lake, where we added Green-winged Teal and Redhead to the trip list, along with the usual American Wigeon, Gadwall, Mallards and American Coots. We then passed by the bizarre Spotted Lake and began the bumpy ride up Mt. Kobau Road. We hoped for some interesting woodpeckers in the burned areas up Mt. Kobau and we did manage to see some Hairy Woodpeckers and a Downy Woodpecker before the rain began to fell. We had another ‘inside the vehicle’ picnic before we began heading back down the road. An American Kestrel, our first for the trip, sat on a snag on a distant hill, and a few Turkey Vultures teetered on the breeze. Along the way Neil coined the term ‘Dairy Bear’, since we saw several black cows that initially were mistaken for Black Bears.

The final stop of the day was at the Nighthawk Border Crossing where open country birds were the target. Sparrows, again, seemed to be everywhere, and we also saw American Pipit, Say’s Phoebe, and some lovely Western Meadowlarks. On our way back towards Osoyoos, I spotted a Lewis’s Woodpecker on a fencepost next to the highway. We turned around and luckily the bird was still there. We watched the woodpecker, which was a young bird, for a few moments through the scope. It then flew across the highway into a tall Ponderosa Pine tree and Julie mentioned there were several birds in that tree. We put the scope on the top of the pine, and there were at least 10 Lewis’s Woodpeckers there, including many pink-bellied adults. It was fine ending to a day upon which we saw close to 80 species. Dinner this evening, at a local Indian restaurant, was delicious!

September 10 – As we emerged from the hotel this morning, it was raining, steadily. Hoping it was not going to be a washout, we drove north towards Vaseux Lake, stopping along the way to pick up some provisions in Oliver. We visited the Vaseux Lake Bird Observatory, where migrating birds are banded, but due to the rain, the nights had not been opened up yet. Still, we spent 45 minutes or so exploring the area, finding Orange-crowned Warbler, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Yellow Warbler, Common Yellowthroat, and a few other species of migrants hopping about in the trees. An immature Cooper’s Hawk sailed by, over a line of willow trees. Sora was heard calling from a little bit of marsh, and at one point, a Great Blue Heron made a close pass by.

Since the road up to the Vaseux Cliffs was closed for construction, we went up to some rocky outcroppings and cliffs nearby on Allendale Road to look for Canyon Wren, an Okanagan Valley speciality. It didn’t take long, and the wren began answering my whistles, on the cliff face. We spotted the wren, sitting on a ledge, and this was a lifer for Neil and Julie! Also on Allendale Road, we ran into a flock of migrant Yellow-rumped Warblers and White-crowned Sparrows, Western Bluebirds and a single House Wren.

Next, we paused briefly in Okanagan Falls to use the facilities. Some Ring-billed and California gulls were sitting on the beach at the south end of Skaha Lake. At Okanagan Falls, we had a good scan, but couldn’t find an American Dipper. Our Osprey for the day flew down the river here, and Yellow-rumped Warblers were flitting about against the rocky outcroppings nearby. We then headed up White Lake Road, pausing at Three Gates Farm, where I hoped we might find Pygmy and White-breasted nuthatches. The nuthatch gods had other plans, and instead we had about 3 Red-breasted Nuthatches. Carrying on, near St. Andrews Golf Course, we saw several Mule Deer, including a couple of fawns, run from one side of the road to the other. An adult female Cooper’s Hawks at on a fence post next to the road, allowing for some nice views and photographs. Along Twin Lakes Road, we stopped to look for a Burrowing Owl near its burrow and we were a little disappointed upon arrival, to find no owl there. A few moments later, the owl hopped out of the burrow and sat up on top, in the pouring rain, and we watched through the scope. Back at White Lake, a scan of the lake revealed some nice birds, including our first Barrow’s Goldeneye, some Ruddy Ducks, Hooded Merganser, Green-winged Teal, and a couple of Killdeer. Western Meadowlarks were singing from hidden perches within the sagebrush. As we enjoyed the lovely scenery at White Lake, the rains let up and the sun came out for the rest of the day.

At Mahoney Lake, amongst the Ponderosa Pines, we had all three species of nuthatch in one tree! There were single Red-breasted and White-breasted nuthatches, and quite a group of Pygmy Nuthatches. Heard, but not seen, Red Crossbills called in the distance. New for our rather small list of mammals, was a tiny Yellow Pine Chipmunk.

We dropped down the steep, and winding Green Lake Road, commenting on sanity of the cyclists grinding their way to the top. We had lunch at Vaseux Lake, and then followed the boardwalk out to the relatively newly constructed viewing tower at the edge of the lake. The scenery, with low clouds hanging against the towering cliffs, was spectacular. There was not an abundance of birds, but still, we saw a female and a lovely male Wood Duck, Great Blue Herons, American Coots, Turkey Vultures, and we heard two scolding Bewick’s Wrens.

Along River Road, we were teased by several Virginia Rails that were calling from close by in a marsh, but remained hidden. We headed back to Osoyoos and had a nice afternoon siesta before heading out for dinner.

It was an omen when we ended up at the Owl Pub for dinner. After dinner we headed out to Road 22 as it was getting dark. As we drove slowly along the road with windows open, we could hear a Coyote yelping somewhere not far away. I spied two White-tailed Deer in a field with my spotlight, helping our mammal list to grow by one more. We pulled into a parking lot, where we may have disturbed a couple of lovebirds in their car when I pulled out my spotlight and spotted a Great Horned Owl sitting on a telephone wire nearby. A second Great Horned Owl could be seen sitting on a fence post in the distance. Also, a Barn Owl was briefly seen in the spotlight, as it flew low over a field of long weeds and grasses. It had been a successful day indeed.

September 11 – Our final day of birding, we left Osoyoos and made our way north to Okanagan Falls. We drove up Shuttleworth Road, heading off onto Dutton Creek Road, where in a wooded gully we had two lovely Northern Pygmy-Owls. Mobbing the pygmy owls were passerines including Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee, Yellow-rumped Warbler and Dark-eyed Junco. Two Canada Jays made a rather brief appearance, and were the only of their kind seen during out short tour. Other highlights included a Pacific Wren, a Hammond’s Flycatcher and a Cassin’s Vireo, all lifers for Neil and Julie. A very cute Yellow Pine Chipmunk nibbled on a red berry, and we finally saw our first Red Squirrels of the tour.

Up near Rabbit Lake, we searched for some higher elevation species and we succeeded in finding a pair of Boreal Chickadees, in addition to Brown Creeper, Golden-crowned Kinglet, Hermit Thrush and a ‘Slate-colored’ Fox Sparrow. On our descent of the road, we took in the fantastic views of Skaha Lake in the distance.

In Penticton, we picked up lunch and took it with us to the Pyramid Provincial Park, south of Summerland. It would have been a perfect picnic spot today, if not for the wasps. We were entertained by a dozen or so Yellow-rumped Warblers flycatching from the poplars in the park.

The drive from Summerland to Kelowna was very scenic, and once across the Bennett Bridge, we went to the Maude Roxby Bird Sanctuary. Here, we looked for warblers and other migrant, since within the two days prior, species like Chestnut-sided Warbler, Tennessee Warbler and American Redstart had been seen here. We didn’t see any of them. Our final stop of the tour was at Robert Lake. We hoped to add some shorebirds to our trip list here, and we managed to find a Long-billed Dowitcher, two Pectoral Sandpipers, a Solitary Sandpiper and a Lesser Yellowlegs. Eared Grebes were out on the lake and were also new, and a final lifer for my clients, a Virginia Rail, made a brief appearance from the reeds. I dropped Neil & Julie off, and we said our goodbyes. We had tallied 120 species of bird on the tour, and 8 species of mammals.

Bird list:

Canada Goose; Wood Duck; Northern Shoveler; Gadwall; American Wigeon; Mallard; Green-winged Teal; Redhead; Ring-necked Duck; Bufflehead; Barrow’s Goldeneye; Hooded Merganser; Common Merganser; Ruddy Duck; California Quail; Gray Partridge (L.O). Ring-necked Pheasant; Sooty Grouse; Pied-billed Grebe; Horned Grebe; Red-necked Grebe; Eared Grebe; Western Grebe; Rock Pigeon; Eurasian Collared-Dove; Mourning Dove; Vaux’s Swift; White-throated Swift (L.O); Virginia Rail; Sora (h); American Coot; Sandhill Crane; Killdeer; Pectoral Sandpiper; Long-billed Dowitcher; Spotted Sandpiper (L.O); Solitary Sandpiper; Lesser Yellowlegs; Ring-billed Gull; California Gull; Herring Gull; Glaucous-winged Gull; Common Loon; Turkey Vulture; Osprey; Northern Harrier; Sharp-shinned Hawk; Cooper’s Hawk; Swainson’s Hawk; Red-tailed Hawk; Barn Owl; Great Horned Owl; Northern Pygmy-Owl; Burrowing Owl; Belted Kingfisher; Lewis’s Woodpecker; Red-naped Sapsucker; Downy Woodpecker; Hairy Woodpecker; Northern Flicker; American Kestrel; Merlin; Peregrine Falcon; Hammond’s Flycatcher; Say’s Phoebe; Cassin’s Vireo; Warbling Vireo; Canada Jay; Steller’s Jay; Clark’s Nutcracker; Black-billed Magpie; American Crow; Northwestern Crow; Common Raven; Horned Lark; Violet-green Swallow; Bank Swallow (L.O); Barn Swallow; Black-capped Chickadee; Mountain Chickadee; Boreal Chickadee; Red-breasted Nuthatch; White-breasted Nuthatch; Pygmy Nuthatch; Brown Creeper; Canyon Wren; House Wren; Pacific Wren; Marsh Wren; Bewick’s Wren; Golden-crowned Kinglet; Ruby-crowned Kinglet; Western Bluebird; Mountain Bluebird; Townsend’s Solitaire; Swainson’s Thrush (L.O); Hermit Thrush; American Robin; Gray Catbird; European Starling; Cedar Waxwing; House Sparrow; American Pipit; Evening Grosbeak (h); House Finch; Cassin’s Finch; Red Crossbill (h); Pine Siskin; Lesser Goldfinch; American Goldfinch; Spotted Towhee; Chipping Sparrow; Clay-colored Sparrow; Vesper Sparrow; Savannah Sparrow; Song Sparrow; Lincoln’s Sparrow; White-crowned Sparrow; Dark-eyed Junco; Yellow-breasted Chat; Western Meadowlark; Red-winged Blackbird; Brewer’s Blackbird; Orange-crowned Warbler; MacGillivray’s Warbler (h); Common Yellowthroat; Yellow Warbler; Yellow-rumped Warbler; Wilson’s Warbler (L.O); Western Tanager.

Mammals – Black Bear; Mule Deer; White-tailed Deer; Eastern Fox Squirrel; Eastern Gray Squirrel; Red Squirrel; Yellow Pine Chipmunk; Common Muskrat.

(h) = heard only; (L.O) = leader only.


Canadian Rockies ~ With Limosa Holidays June 17 to 30, 2019

Day 1 – The group assembled in Calgary this evening.

Day 2 – After breakfast we ventured south of Calgary to Frank Lake. The weather was quite variable today, beginning with cool, windy conditions and some light rain, and ending with sunshine and warm temperatures. Along the way we saw the usual things like American Crow, Black-billed Magpie, Double-crested Cormorant and Swainson’s Hawk. Once along the gravel access road to the N.W. corner of the lake, we began to see

Western Meadowlark. Frank Lake, AB. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

some other interesting species such as Clay-colored and Savannah sparrows, Tree and Bank swallows, Brown-headed Cowbirds, Western Meadowlark and more. We explored the area around the blind, or hide, whichever  you prefer. It was very active with birds here dozens of Franklin’s Gulls were on a pond, along with a Bonaparte’s Gull, Forster’s Tern and Black Tern. Yellow-headed and Red-winged blackbirds were numerous and both favorites amongst the group, 5 of which were from the U.K. and two from Australia. Wilsons Phalaropes were also about in good numbers. The female Wilson’s Phalarope is the more attractive of the pair, and she does nothing more than lay the eggs and she lets the male do the rest. Other waders found in the vicinity of the hide included several stunning American Avocets, some Willets, a lone Greater Yellowlegs and several Killdeer, the latter of which were doing the ‘broken wing’ act in order to lure us away from nest or youngsters. The showing of waterfowl at Frank Lake was very nice today and some of the more common species included Gadwall, Cinnamon Teal, Blue-winged Teal, Lesser

Black-necked Stilt. Frank Lake, AB. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Scaup, Redhead, Canvasback, Bufflehead, Ruddy Duck and Mallard, with small numbers of Barrow’s Goldeneye, Green-winged Teal, Northern Pintail and Ring-necked Duck. There were plenty of Eared Grebes about, and we saw them very well from the hide, including some adults with tiny stripe-headed chicks riding on their backs. We also saw a number of Western Grebes, again with tiny chicks riding on their parents. Today was the day of the pelican, and we must have seen at least 150 American White Pelicans in the area of Frank Lake. This was much in contrast with my previous group’s visit on May 28, when we saw just one! Quite a few White-faced Ibis, one of the more sought-after species at Frank Lake, were noted, though mostly in flight. Great Blue Herons and Black-crowned Night-Herons lazily flapped their way over the marshes, while the marshes themselves held American Coots, chattering Marsh Wrens and the ever elusive Sora. I headed back to retrieve the van at one point, and a Sora came out and paraded around for the group in my absence. We found just two species of mammal today, Richardson’s Ground-Squirrels, which were quite numerous and a single Muskrat.

We had lunch at Smitty’s in High River. As we sat inside, a Common Grackle flew by. Once we were finished lunch we checked a small reservoir next to the parking lot where grackles can sometimes be found, but none were cooperative. We did see a female and 4 young Common Goldeneye here though. Back out in the direction of Frank Lake, we

Am. White Pelicans. Frank Lake, AB. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

checked a road through open agricultural country where along the fenceposts we saw Eastern Kingbird, Western Meadowlark, Brewer’s Blackbird, Vesper Sparrow and Savannah Sparrow. We stopped at a hedge where a pair of Swainson’s Hawks were nesting. Presumably the female, was sitting on the nest with just her head showing, while the male was screaming at us from above. We were happy to see the hawks, but we were really looking for owls here. Great Horned Owl, to be exact, and after a lengthy search, I spotted one, an adult, roosting in the hedge. We took a drive down to a flooded field where I hoped there might be some Marbled Godwits, and sure enough there were ten or so of them there, along with Willet, American Avocet and the likes. In the distance I could hear calling Upland Sandpipers and singing Horned Larks, but neither made any appearances. We headed back to Calgary, had a nice dinner and then headed off for the night.

Day 3 – We loaded up the van and rode west towards the Rocky Mountains, which were mostly shrouded in clouds. The weather today was the big story. Overnight there had been electrical storms and in the morning it was cold, windy and there were spotty rain showers. These conditions made the birding a little tricky, but we did still manage to see many fantastic birds. Along Grand Valley Road we stopped at a pond where a single Trumpeter Swan was a new bird for many people on the tour. Also here were several species of waterfowl for our daily list, including Mallard, Northern Pintail, American Wigeon, Ruddy Duck, Lesser Scaup, Ring-necked Duck and Bufflehead. Foraging over the surface of the pond were mixed hirundines, including Barn Swallow, Tree Swallow and our first Northern Rough-winged Swallows of the trip. Double-crested Cormorants loafed on rocks in the middle of the pond as well. All of a sudden the ducks took to the air frantically and a moment later, we spotted the reason for the conundrum. An adult Bald Eagle appeared and flew across the pond, eventually perching on a fence post on a hill nearby. As we carried north along Grand Valley Road, a flash of bright blue on a fence post next to the road alerted us to the presence of a male Mountain Bluebird. Soon

Tennessee Warbler. Chris Charlesworth.

thereafter, we saw two more Mountain Bluebirds, a male and a female, and by the end of the day we had passed several on fence posts. The mixed forest here along Grand Valley Road offered up some good birds, despite the weather. We had Lincoln’s and White-throated sparrows, Black-headed Grosbeak, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Lesser Yellowlegs, Wilson’s Snipe, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Tennessee Warbler, Townsend’s Solitaire, Western Wood-Pewee and more here. Our first large mammal of the trip, White-tailed Deer, were about in ones and twos, and later on in the day we saw a Mule Deer, displaying its enormous ears. Out over a grassy field, a few lucky birders saw a male Bobolink doing flight songs. A Le Conte’s Sparrow gave its thin, wheezy song from the grass, but wouldn’t appear.

We headed back into Cochrane for lunch and then spent the afternoon exploring Horse Creek Road. Winds had kicked up along with rain showers and this is perhaps why we didn’t see a Le Conte’s Sparrow. A great sighting of a Nelson’s Sparrow more than made up for missing the Le Conte’s however. Our first Yellow Warbler popped out of the bushes for a few minutes before disappearing and a Gray Catbird showed for a moment before scooting off across the road. Way out in the marsh we could the ticking calls of a Yellow Rail. We strolled up a dirt road through some aspens, and were rewarded with a

Downy Woodpecker. Chris Charlesworth.

Downy Woodpecker, as well as a Northern Flicker, and a pair of Red-breasted Nuthatches. In the coniferous woods near the Dartique Lodge, we had some more nice species, such as a male Rose-breasted Grosbeak, a stunning little Golden-crowned Kinglet, Mountain Chickadees, and a couple of Evening Grosbeaks, making for a three grosbeak day! We began the journey to Banff, enjoying views of the scenic mountaintops peeking out from behind the clouds.

Day 4 – It was supposed to be a cold, rainy day, according to the weather forecast, but overall, the conditions turned out better than we expected. We began before breakfast at Vermilion Lakes, a lovely place nestled amongst the Rocky Mountains near Banff. We hoped to see some wildlife this morning, and we did, although it was a single Least Chipmunk running along a rocky hillside. We saw our first striking Common Yellowthroats, as well as our first, of many, Song Sparrows. Willow Flycatcher, our first member of the difficult ’empidonax’ family, was seen here. On the lakes themselves we watched a gorgeous pair of adult Common Loons come in for a smooth landing and then swim together on the calm waters. Cinnamon Teal, Hooded Merganser, and Ring-necked Duck were also tallied here. We saw an Osprey, and an adult Bald Eagle, and an adult

Common Loon. Vermilion Lake. Banff, AB. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Peregrine Falcon flew over rather laboriously, with some prey dangling from its talons. We had a short stop in a patch of mixed deciduous / coniferous forest where more new birds appeared, including Swainson’s Thrush, Ruby-crowned and Golden-crowned kinglets, a female type American Redstart and a rather stunning Townsend’s Warbler.

After a tasty breakfast at Melissa’s, we headed out to explore the Bow Valley Parkway. Our first stop, at the Muleshoe Picnic Area was very good. Right next to the parking area, an impressive male Pileated Woodpecker poked its head out from its nest hole in an aspen. The bird disappeared into the hole, and seconds later flew out. Then, the female stuck her head out of the hole as well. Shortly thereafter we found another woodpecker nest, that of a pair of Red-naped Sapsuckers. A Northern Flicker flew past, making this stop a three woodpecker species stop. As we were loading into the van, I spotted a Brown

Pileated Woodpecker. Banff, AB. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Creeper in the trees nearby, so everyone hopped back out and we saw the creeper. As far as mammals are concerned, we saw a Columbian Ground-Squirrel at Muleshoe this morning.

We drove along the parkway, stopping now and then to look at birds. Every passing vehicle, it seemed, stopped and asked us what we were doing. Of course, their loud vehicles and yelling voices had scared all the birds away. It was a futile attempt, so we headed for Johnston Canyon where a walk up to the Lower Falls was most enjoyable. Some of the birds we encountered, though there were not too many, included Swainson’s Thrush, Townsend’s Warbler, Chipping Sparrow, Dark-eyed Junco, Canada Jay, Common Raven and best of all, an American Dipper. We got our cuteness overload here as a couple of Golden-mantled Ground-Squirrels posed for photos. We returned to the bottom of the canyon and had lunch in the café.

After lunch we headed for Lake Louise, one of Canada’s most iconic lakes. Even though it was cloudy, we still could see the glaciers hanging high over the crystal blue waters of the lake. Barn, Cliff and our first Violet-green swallows of the tour were seen here, skimming low over the water’s surface. In the bushes next to the lake were Yellow-rumped Warblers of the ‘Myrtle’ and ‘Audubon’s races, along with various hybrids as well. A lovely male Wilson’s Warbler sat in the bushes right in front of us, which was

Wilson’s Warbler. Chris Charlesworth.

much appreciated, since we had just tried to see one in another location.  That Wilson’s Warbler led us on a chase, ending up with almost nobody seeing the bird. Leslie spotted a fantastic mammal, a Red-backed Vole, as it nibbled on things beneath a bench. Just before we left, a couple of very cooperative Boreal Chickadees graced us with their presence. I got a Pine Siskin in the scope view. One person looked through the scope and saw the siskin, the next person looked through the scope and saw a Pine Grosbeak! Unfortunately, the grosbeak didn’t hang around long. Varied Thrushes sang from the thick forests, but would never come out to investigate this afternoon.

Taking advantage of the fact that it wasn’t raining, we decided to head up to Moraine Lake this afternoon as well. Again, once we got out of the vehicle, the rather haunting song of the Varied Thrush rang out from the forests, but again, the birds stayed hidden. Canada Jays patrolled the areas around the parking lot. The views at Moraine Lake were spectacular today, as always, with the lake glassy calm and the color of jade. Here, we saw another Pine Grosbeak, this one a male, however it also did not stick around long enough. Back in Banff we had dinner and retired for the evening. The sound of falling rain and the hooting of distant trains could be heard as dusk fell.

moraine lake
Moraine Lake, AB. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Day 5 – On our way out of Banff, we stopped at one more location, the Cave and Basin Boardwalk. It rained fairly steadily as we explored this area, where some of the interesting birds we found included a rather obliging MacGillivray’s Warbler, a White-crowned Sparrow, and a Northern Waterthrush. The rain chased us back to the van and we began the drive to British Columbia. As we traveled west, the weather improved, and by the time we were in Golden it was sunny and warm. Along the way we saw Bighorn Sheep on hillside above the freeway. We finally left the Bow River behind and it was replaced with the Kicking Horse River, which also had a milky blue color, due to glacial silt from runoff.

Before we went for lunch, we had a stroll at Eidelweiss Slough in Golden. Wetlands here held Red-winged Blackbirds, several Common Yellowthroats, Spotted Sandpiper, Willow Flycatcher, Cedar Waxwings and much more. A male Black-chinned Hummingbird sat up atop a dead tree, and was a bit of a surprise find for this location. After lunch, we drove on some more, into the Pacific Time Zone, and up and over the Rogers Pass, into the

Common Yellowthroat. Golden, BC. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Selkirk Mountains. We stopped at Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk, where it was a lovely sunny and warm afternoon. The vegetation was lush here, including the giant namesake Skunk Cabbages. There were several good birds here, but a couple of them just mostly played hide and seek with us, including a Veery and a Rufous Hummingbird. We did have nice views of male American Redstarts, as well as Pine Siskin, Cedar Waxwing and a brief flyby Pileated Woodpecker. A couple of us were lucky enough to be looking in the right place at the right time when a Short-tailed Weasel dashed across the path with some prey dangling from its mouth. Just then, a gentleman was coming back from the boardwalk and he stopped to inform us of a bear up ahead on the path. We slowly headed onwards, looking around each corner for the bear, which Chris saw as it disappeared over a log and into the wetland. Moments later we heard people clapping and yelling for help from the direction of where the bear had been. We headed down the path a little more and found four folks, two from Singapore and a couple from Belgium, on the boardwalk and afraid to proceed. We told them to follow us and as a group we headed towards the boardwalk exit. Then, I spotted the Black Bear, feeding on the greenery next to the boardwalk. It was not a large bear, perhaps a 3 year old, and he was so intent on eating the lush plants that he barely moved as we quickly walked by the area he was in. Everyone was very excited that we had seen a bear, though we were not expecting it to be so close up and personal.

We made a short stop at a place along the railway east of Revelstoke, called Greely. Unfortunately the lovely riparian forest and meadows here are slated to be developed. I had found an Alder Flycatcher here, along with Lazuli Buntings several days earlier when I was traveling through the area towards Calgary. It didn’t take us long to find both of these birds, and I think the bunting may have won out in the beauty department,

Lazuli Bunting. Greely, Revelstoke, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

though I preferred seeing the flycatcher since it is not a bird I see very often. We crossed the Columbia River in Revelstoke and carried on to Salmon Arm. As we drove along the south side of Shuswap Lake, it seemed to go on forever. Today, we had started in the mountains where it was cold and raining, and ended up with sunshine and warm temperatures by the late afternoon.

Day 6 – We were out birding before breakfast, and we began at the pier in Salmon Arm. There was a slight chill in the air this morning, but the sun was out and the birds were active. Several Ospreys, including one on a nest, posed at close range for photos. Swallows, including Violet-green, Tree, Barn, Cliff and Northern Rough-winged were all tallied. Several times, the swallows got all excited, giving alarm calls and then chased and mobbed a male Merlin. Another good raptor sighting this morning was an immature Cooper’s Hawk that flew in and perched in a Russian Olive tree. We scanned through dozens of Western Grebes and I eventually spotted our target species for the morning, a Clark’s Grebe. An Eared Grebe was seen far out on the lake, and a Pied-billed Grebe frustratingly lurked in the vegetation at the edge of the lake, where it was difficult to see. A female Common

Osprey. Salmon Arm, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Merganser swam across the water at the marina, and she was the first of her species to be seen on the tour. We also saw our first House Finches this morning, as they fed on a feeder that was suction cupped right to somebody’s living room window. High overhead, we spotted at least two or three Black Swifts as they sailed on set wings against the clouds above. Feeling as though we’d earned our breakfast, we returned to the hotel and ate, before packing up the van. We headed back to the waterfront, but this time we walked along the Christmas Island Trail, and the birds were busy. There were plenty of Common Yellowthroats and several Willow Flycatchers to be seen, as well as an inquisitive little family group of Black-capped Chickadees. We had good looks at Wood Ducks, and we enjoyed watching the bustling colony of Ring-billed Gulls, especially when the Bald Eagle flew over and put the whole colony into the air. Another highlight this afternoon was a male Belted Kingfisher that posed nicely for us. We enjoyed scope views of a singing male Yellow-breasted Chat as well, a bird that is not normally found as far north as Salmon Arm in B.C. Some of the group lagged behind and saw a Beaver transporting a horsetail near its lodge.

We had lunch on the patio of a restaurant and watched a dark storm cloud move in our direction. Luckily the rain held off just long enough for us to finish our lunch. We then drove to Kamloops and headed out to Tranquille for one last stop of the day. We saw several glorious Lazuli Buntings, as well as Eastern and Western kingbirds, Gray Catbird, Yellow Warblers, and our first Pacific-slope Flycatcher of the tour. Overhead, Vaux’s Swifts were flying about with the swallows and we saw an adult Peregrine Falcon in the sky as well.

Day 7 – We began in grasslands near Kamloops where one of our first birds was perhaps

Burrowing Owl. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

the bird of the day for many, a Burrowing Owl. In the same area as the owl, we saw our first Spotted Towhee, a lovely male. As we traveled up through the sagebrush we saw the usual Western Meadowlarks, Vesper Sparrows, Eastern Kingbirds and Mountain Bluebird. We spent some time exploring a little grove of aspens where we had our first Dusky Flycatcher of the trip as well as Western Wood-Pewees, Red-naped Sapsucker, Warbling Vireo and Cedar Waxwing. Three Sandhill Cranes were a surprise as they called from a ridge to the north. There were several nice little wetlands along our route today, where we added some waterfowl to the daily tally such as Lesser Scaup, Bufflehead, Hooded Merganser, Ruddy Duck, Gadwall, Northern

Calliope Hummingbird. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Shoveler and more. An adult Pied-billed Grebe proved rather difficult to see as it surfaced for mere seconds each time before diving back down beneath the surface.

Our next stop, at a small lake, produced lovely sightings of breeding Red-necked Grebes, as well as Marsh Wren, Yellow-headed Blackbird, Ring-necked Duck, Bufflehead and nearby, a stunning male Calliope Hummingbird. We heard a Least Flycatcher singing in an aspen copse, so most of us trudged into the forest to look for the bird, however, as soon as a swarm of mosquitos emerged, most people retreated. Hillary and I persisted, and eventually got good views of the flycatcher, the only one for the tour. The next new species to be added, was a gorgeous male Western Tanager in the coniferous forest near McQueen Lake.

Virginia Rail. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Our lunch stop, at Isobel Lake, was very nice. Our picnic table overlooked a little marsh and lake where Common Loons were swimming about and Marsh Wrens were chattering away. We had great views of a Virginia Rail here as well. After it was all said and done, several people on the tour voted today’s picnic spot, the best lunch spot on the trip. I tried to call in a Northern Pygmy-Owl, with no luck, however, a nice assortment of birds, including Orange-crowned Warbler, Hammond’s Flycatcher, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee, Western Tanager, Ruby-crowned Kinglet and Lincoln’s Sparrow, came in to investigate.

After lunch we headed back towards Kamloops and then we drove up Hwy 5A, stopping in at Separation Lake. The target species here was Say’s Phoebe, and we saw a pair, although they were a little far away. The phoebe pair were busily feeding their second

Lewis’s Woodpecker. Kamloops, BC. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

brood of the season inside a distant dilapidated barn and we watched through the scope. Our next stop was at Planet Mine Road, where open grasslands, dotted with large pines and firs, are good for Lewis’s Woodpeckers, one of the more sought-after woodpecker species here. It didn’t take us too long to find a pair of Lewis’s Woodpeckers as they fed young inside a snag. Our first Hairy Woodpecker of the tour was a nice surprise here as well. Another species new for the trip here was Pygmy Nuthatch. Back in Kamloops we had a delicious dinner at a local Indian establishment.

Day 8 – Because of sensitivity issues, I won’t give any specific locations, but this morning we were treated to views of an adult and two ‘brancher’ Great Gray Owls. Upon arrival at the location, I was shocked to see 30 vehicles lining the road and dozens of people with hunting dogs and guns. I was also surprised to see that the owls didn’t seem to mind all

Great Gray Owl. Kamloops, BC. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

the activity. We viewed them from a distance through the scope before leaving them ‘in peace’. After a short ‘pit-stop’ we tried another road where an American Three-toed Woodpecker had been nesting. Unfortunately, the woodpeckers were not there anymore as the young had most likely fledged. We did, however, add a couple of birds to the trip list here, including White-winged Crossbill and Hermit Thrush.

We paused for lunch in Merritt and then stopped in at my house, along Trepanier Creek in Peachland. Because of bear problems, I had to take most of my feeders down this spring unfortunately, though there was still one hummingbird feeder up. We had good views of Calliope, Rufous and Black-chinned hummingbirds here, all the while enjoying a cup of tea / coffee that my better half Cindy had prepared for us. My son Carsen was pretty excited to see dad again too.

Our next stop was at Rose Valley in West Kelowna. It was quite hot and sunny at this point in the day, but the birds didn’t seem to mind. There were Western Tanagers, Lazuli Bunting, Veery, Dusky Flycatcher, Black-headed Grosbeak and Spotted Towhee here, as well as quite a few other species. Violet-green Swallows were foraging in numbers, skimming inches above the ground all along the trail, making for some good entertainment. The best bird was heard only, a Lesser Goldfinch, calling up a wooded slope. While this species has recently colonized an area near Osoyoos, there have been no records as far north as Kelowna in the Okanagan up until now. Try as we might, we never did see the goldfinch, so we had to put it down as heard only.

We drove on into the bustling city of Kelowna, checked into our hotel and then went out for dinner at a Greek restaurant.

Day 9 – First thing we headed for Mission Creek in Kelowna, to look for a roosting Western Screech-Owl. ‘I get it 50% of the time’, I explained to the group. Unfortunately, today was one of those times when the owl wasn’t present. A little walk through Sutherland Hills Park ensured we saw some nice things anyhow, such as male Calliope Hummingbirds, Pygmy Nuthatch, Cedar Waxwing and more.

We returned to the hotel and had breakfast, before heading back out into the field. We enjoyed a sunny morning on Beaver Lake Road, north of Kelowna. In the grassland

Western Bluebird. Kelowna, BC. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

habitat we had some nice birds including our first Western Bluebirds of the tour, and our first Lark Sparrow of the trip. Bullock’s Orioles, Lazuli Bunting, Eastern Kingbird, Western Meadowlark and Vesper Sparrow were also noted. We tried, unsuccessfully for a Northern Pygmy-Owl, but we successful in finding a lovely Barred Owl. The owl sat on a branch over the trail for a moment before flying off into the forest.

We picked up lunch at the supermarket and took it down to Mission Creek Park where we enjoyed a picnic while dozens of children played on the nearby playground. A couple of Eastern Gray Squirrels hopped about on the grass here in the park, though I rarely hear anyone from the U.K. say nice things about this rather pesky species. We drove up Hwy 33, east of Kelowna, and we paused to watch two adult Golden Eagles soar next to the highway. Up in the Big White Ski Village, at over 6000 feet elevation, we enjoyed watching our first Steller’s Jays of the tour as they came in to feed at a feeding station,

Western Tanager. B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

along with Yellow Pine Chipmunks, Red Squirrels and Columbian Ground-Squirrels. A walk along an old logging road through the boreal forest produced our first Varied Thrush, as well as Canada Jay, Boreal Chickadee and most surprising of all, a Solitary Sandpiper calling from high atop a spruce tree.

Along McCulloch Road, it didn’t take us too long to find an Olive-sided Flycatcher, one of just two seen on the trip.

One final stop, along Philpott Road, yielded several Chestnut-backed Chickadees, as well as the usual Mountain Chickadees, Red-breasted Nuthatches, Red Crossbills and a Brown Creeper. Dinner this evening was at an Asian buffet.

Day 10 – Leaving Kelowna, we followed Hwy 97 south, back across Okanagan Lake via the Bennett Bridge. We stopped in Penticton, to check a large field near the airport where a Grasshopper Sparrow had been present. It didn’t take us long to find the sparrow and we enjoyed excellent close-up views of this rather rare and local species.

Our next stop was along White Lake Road at Three Gates Farm. I went and asked Doreen for permission to come into her lovely garden and see the birds. We lined up in front of her log house and watched the hummingbird feeders. We were only there for about 15 minutes, but we had excellent views of several Calliope, Rufous and even Black-chinned hummingbirds. Down a wooded slope, we saw a Great Horned Owl fly into the thick forest, undoubtedly spooked from its roost by us. Next up, we spotted three introduced Gray Partridge as they unsuccessfully tried to blend in with the grasses. In the sagebrush at White Lake we could hear a Sage Thrasher singing in the distance. We climbed over a fence and walked down towards the song, eventually obtaining good views of the thrasher, another rare and local bird in Canada. As we walked back towards the van, I said, ‘I’ll bet there’s a Sage Thrasher next to the van now’, and surprisingly there they were, two Sage Thrashers, in a bush next to the van.

We made a short stop in the pine forest near Mahoney Lake where yet another target species, the Gray Flycatcher, gave itself up quite easily. We enjoyed lunch at the south end of Skaha Lake before beginning the bumpy journey up Shuttleworth Creek Road, east of Okanagan Falls. We followed a little track through the forest along Dutton Creek to a spot where I had found a Northern Pygmy-Owl with my first Rockies tour group a

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N. Pygmy-Owl. B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

few weeks prior. Luck was on our side, and the Northern Pygmy-Owl again came in to investigate my whistle. A stop in the larch trees along Venner Meadows Road added the third out of four possible sapsucker species to our list. The male and female Williamson’s Sapsuckers are very different from one another and we saw them side by side, the male decked out in black, white, red and yellow and the female a study in subtle brown and black barring. On our way back down towards the valley, we paused at a nice viewpoint where a pair of Lewis’s Woodpeckers were busily feeding youngsters in a large Ponderosa Pine snag.

After a short drive we were in Osoyoos, a tourist town situated right on the U.S. border with Washington state just to the south of us. We had a nice dinner at the Wildfire Grill and then we headed out to try some evening birding. We began at Road 22 where Common Nighthawks were numerous at dusk. We also had nice views of a Say’s Phoebe in the fading light. We drove up towards White Lake again, to an area good for Western Screech-Owls, but we couldn’t elicit any response from them. We did see a Great Horned Owl perched atop a power pole, however, and then it began to rain and there was thunder and lightning, so we decided to call it a night.

Day 11 – It was a sunny morning as we explored Road 22, where in the hayfields we had great views of several Bobolinks. We then had a nice hike up to ‘The Throne’, a prominent cliff near the north end of Osoyoos Lake, that, if you use your imagination, is in the shape of a throne. We had several target species to find this morning and most of them cooperated nicely. We had great views of both Canyon Wren and Rock Wren here

Canyon Wren. B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

this morning, and we were treated to views of a pair of Peregrine Falcons as they chased each other high up against the cliffs. There were White-throated Swifts soaring high overhead as well, another species new for the bulging trip list.

After we picked up lunch in Osoyoos, we headed up Hwy 3 into the Richter Pass area, west of town. At Kruger Mountain Road we were able to see a pair of the rather newly discovered population of Lesser Goldfinch that have been in the area for at least a year now. There were a lot of other birds up in this area as well, such as Say’s Phoebe, Red Crossbill, Black-headed Grosbeak and a House Wren, the latter of which was perched on a cow’s skull that was adorning the gate to a property.

I took the group up another bumpy dirt road, this time to Mount Kobau, where a forest fire devastated the woods a few years earlier. Burned forests are good for woodpeckers and we hoped to perhaps find a Black-backed or Am. Three-toed woodpecker here today.

Hairy Woodpecker. B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.


Not for a lack of trying, we couldn’t find either of those two tricky woodpeckers. We kept bumping into Hairy Woodpeckers, many of them, and some of which had their white underparts stained sooty from rubbing up against the trunks of burned trees. There were still quite a few other birds about as well, including Dusky Flycatchers, Lazuli Buntings, MacGillivray’s Warbler and Red-naped Sapsuckers.

At the Nighthawk Border Crossing we were able to find a Brewer’s Sparrow, new for the trip list, along with others previously seen such as Lark Sparrow, Western Meadowlark and Western Kingbird. We had dinner at an Italian restaurant this evening and then some of us headed out after dark to look for Common Poorwills. We had good looks at a poorwill as it fluttered about above Kilpoola Lake Road, and we heard begging young of two species of owls, Northern Saw-whet Owl and Long-eared Owl.

Day 12 – Today was to be mostly a travel day. We left Osoyoos and headed directly to Princeton, making one stop en route, at Taylor Way, to look for Mountain Goat. We spotted a Mountain Goat high on the cliffs, and it had a fluffy little youngster following close behind. A lady came out of her house, walking her dog, and approached us. She told us to be careful as she’d just seen a bear in the neighborhood. Soon thereafter, the bear appeared. It was a brown and rather scruffy looking Black Bear and it crossed the road and proceeded to stroll through the gardens. A doe Mule Deer was not happy with the bear’s presence and we speculated there was a fawn somewhere nearby hidden in

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Cascade Golden-mantled Ground-Squirrel. Manning Park, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

the grasses.

In Princeton we picked up lunch and then we drove on to Manning Park where we walked the Strawberry Flats Trail. Birds were not abundant, but we did see several nice Chestnut-backed Chickadees, along with Red-breasted Nuthatch, Hermit Thrush, Swainson’s Thrush, Ruby-crowned Kinglet and Dark-eyed Juncos. New for the burgeoning list of sparrows we’d seen on the tour was a ‘Slate-colored’ Fox Sparrow, and we saw two female Pine Grosbeaks here quite nicely as well.

We had lunch at the Manning Park Lodge where we finally saw our first Clark’s Nutcracker of the trip, along with Steller’s Jays, Common Raven and Columbian Ground-Squirrels, all of which were looking for an easy handout from picnickers. We drove up to the Cascade Lookout and we were inundated with ‘moochers’ once again. There were several Clark’s Nutcrackers here as well, including at least one noisy, begging fledgling. A

Clark’s Nutcracker. Manning Park, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

well fed Common Raven sat on the edge of the parking lot, waiting for scraps, and a number of Yellow Pine Chipmunks, and Cascade Golden-mantled Ground-Squirrels pushed the cuteness levels into overdrive. On our way back down towards Hwy 3, Clive spotted a pair of Sooty Grouse at the road’s edge. Surprisingly, these were the only grouse seen on the tour.

The rest of the afternoon was spent in the van as we made our way to our hotel in Richmond.

Day 13 – From Richmond we drove straight through Vancouver’s bustling downtown, though it wasn’t too busy this morning as it was Saturday. We crossed over the Lion’s Gate Bridge and made our way to West Vancouver’s Lighthouse Park. The walk from the parking lot down to the shore should take about 15 minutes, however, since we were stopping to look at birds and things, it took us much longer. Tiny Pacific Wrens belted out their loud songs from the moss-laden forest, and a male Black-throated Gray Warbler showed nicely, the only one for the tour. A Hutton’s Vireo appeared, though it didn’t hang around for long, another addition to the list. We had seen an impressive array of mammals on the tour, and here at Lighthouse Park we saw the last of many squirrel

Black-throated Gray Warbler. Lighthouse Park. West Vancouver, B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

species, the Douglas’s Squirrel, which looks quite a bit like an American Red Squirrel, only less red. At the lighthouse itself we were treated to views of a beautiful male Anna’s Hummingbird, the hardiest of Canada’s 5 regular hummingbird species, and the only one that regularly spends the winter on the west coast. Watching out over the sea, we saw our first Pelagic Cormorants fly past, and we saw a few Double-crested Cormorants for comparison, the latter being larger and chunkier of the two.

We picked up lunch and had a picnic at Ambleside Park in West Vancouver. The usual Northwestern Crows and Glaucous-winged Gulls watched intently as we ate, waiting for scraps, and they found some. More Pelagic Cormorants were noted here, and we had scope views of our only Pigeon Guillemot of the trip. After some scanning, I finally found a single female type Harlequin Duck sitting on some rocks.

Our next location was Cypress Mountain, and we headed straight up to the cross country ski trails. It didn’t take us long to find some Red-breasted Sapsuckers, the fourth species of sapsucker we had seen on the tour, completing the North American set of sapsuckers. On our way down to Vancouver, we stopped at a viewpoint where we enjoyed great views of the city below. As an added bonus there were several flocks of Band-tailed Pigeons wheeling about over the treetops.

Back in Richmond, we went out for the final dinner of the tour at The Keg.

Day 14 – It was the last morning of the tour and we went out for a nice breakfast before heading down to the Tsawwassen Ferry Jetty. Hoping to add a few more species to the trip list today, we searched for, and found, several Black Oystercatchers. Three Caspian Terns flew past, and we saw some distant scoters that were probably Surf Scoters, but we

Black Oystercatcher. B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

couldn’t count them as they were just too far away. A Whimbrel was a nice surprise here and perhaps an early southbound migrant. Several Harlequin Ducks were diving for food close to the road, and we had a quick stop to look at them.

We made our way to the famous George C. Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary, or known by locals simply as Reifel. Here, a network of ponds and waterways, as well as an extensive marsh complex and riparian bottomland combine to make for a nice variety of habitats and birds. Upon arrival we were inundated by the usual Feral Rock Pigeons, Mallard, Canada Geese and even a pair of Sandhill Cranes. Once we began exploring the trails of Reifel, more interesting birds began to pop up. Song Sparrows, Spotted Towhees, Black-capped Chickadees and Red-winged Blackbirds were all fairly common songbirds. In the wetlands, Marsh Wrens were seen quite well, alongside Common Yellowthroats. We saw our first Purple Martins of the tour, as several males and females sailed through the sky. From the outer ponds there were few shorebirds, unfortunately, but there was a Wilson’s Phalarope and both Greater and Lesser yellowlegs. We spotted three fledgling Great Horned Owls in the large maple trees this morning, and eventually we enjoyed excellent views of our only Bewick’s Wren of the tour. Back at the visitor’s center we saw more Anna’s Hummingbirds at feeders. A short walk down the entrance road produced yet one more west coast songbird, the tiny Bushtit. A female, with her pale yellow eye, was feeding young in a hanging ‘sock’ nest. As we left Reifel, we checked out an old barn where occasionally a Barn Owl can be seen. Unfortunately, there was no owl there today, extending my streak to 0 in about 8 visits.

We had lunch at Moxie’s and then visited Iona Island in Richmond for one last birding stop before the tour’s end. What is a birding trip without a visit to the local sewage ponds

Least Sandpiper. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

after all? There were not too many birds here though, and shorebirds were particularly lacking in numbers. We saw a Spotted Sandpiper, two Killdeer, a Lesser Yellowlegs and best of all about 20 Least Sandpipers, the 220th species for the tour! At Vancouver International Airport we said our goodbyes and the tour was over. Thanks again for the great company and birding skills brought forth by members of both Rockies tours this summer.

The Canadian Rockies with Limosa Holidays ~ May 27 to June 9, 2019

Day 1 – The group of 7 participants on a British Airways flight from London arrived at Calgary International Airport on time, and they came through the arrivals hall, where I met them, quite quickly as well. We made the short transfer back to our first hotel and since everyone was tired, we headed to bed for some rest.

Day 2 – We awoke to sunshine and cool temperatures this morning. Some people found a few goodies right around the hotel grounds this morning, including our first Northern Flicker and a White-tailed Jackrabbit. Along with the rest of Calgary, we joined the rush hour and headed south. After a while the traffic began thinning out and pulled into High River for a quick pit stop before continuing on to Frank Lake. A Mule Deer was sighted, our first ‘big mammal’ of the tour, and we had some of the first sightings of common birds like American Crow, Black-billed Magpie and the likes. We reached the entrance road to Frank Lake, but it still must have taken us close to an hour to get anywhere near

Yellow-headed Blackbird. Frank Lake, Alberta. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

the lake. There were just too many birds about, mostly sitting on fence posts, and we couldn’t resist stopping to see what they were. Many were Tree Swallows, the gorgeous blue males shining in the morning sunlight. There were also Savannah and Clay-colored sparrows, the first of many species of sparrows likely to come on this trip. Brown-headed Cowbird, Brewer’s Blackbird, Red-winged Blackbird,  Yellow-headed Blackbird, a fine list of icterids, all appeared as well. We saw quite a few Richardson’s Ground-Squirrels here today, and whatever they lacked in size they made up for with cuteness.  Once we finally reached the shores of the lake, we were rather quickly overcome with insects, though we were relieved to find out that they, for the most part, were not of the biting varieties. Waterfowl was one of the main attractions at Frank Lake today we racked up quite an impressive list of ducks indeed. Some of the highlights included Redhead, Canvasback, Ring-necked Duck, Bufflehead, Common Goldeneye, Ruddy Duck, American Wigeon, Blue-winged and Cinnamon teal, Northern Shoveler, Gadwall and Northern Pintail. The lake was dotted with Eared

Black-necked Stilt. Frank Lake, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

Grebes, along with some Western Grebes as well. Christine spotted a Common Loon, decked out in fabulous breeding plumage. There were loads of Franklin’s Gulls here, and upon closer inspection, we picked out several Bonaparte’s Gulls as well. Christine pointed out one unusual gull and it turned out to be a local rarity, a Sabine’s Gull. Later, I counted at least 45 Sabine’s Gulls on the lake, a very impressive total for a species that typically migrates over the open ocean. Black Terns and Forster’s Terns put on a nice show for us today, with many individuals of both species seen carrying off small fish to their nests. Several White-faced Ibis were seen today, though numbers seemed a bit lower than in previous years. Up to three Great Blue Herons were tallied and a couple of Black-crowned Night-Herons lazily flew past. Shorebirds included some stunners like American Avocet, Black-necked Stilt, Wilson’s Phalarope, Marbled Godwit and Willet. We also had Red-necked Phalaropes but they were quite distant out on the lake. At least two Spotted Sandpipers were spotted, pardon the pun, over the course of the day, along with

American Avocet. Frank Lake, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

several Killdeer. We had incredible views of a Sora that seemingly didn’t know that rails were supposed to hide in the reeds, as it came right out in the open. Another, sometimes hard to see, dweller of the reeds, the Marsh Wren, showed itself nicely a couple of times today.

After lunch in High River, we had a look around a pond for Common Grackles and we found a couple of males foraging along the shore. A drive through some farmland produced a few new species, the most notable of which were 3 Great Horned Owls, two babies and an adult, sleeping the day away in a hedgerow. In the same hedge, a Swainson’s Hawk was sitting on a nest while its mate screamed at us from above. After we’d seen one or two nice Vesper Sparrows we headed back to Frank Lake

Sora. Frank Lake, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

for an hour or so before we had to begin the drive back to Calgary, hitting the rush hour once again, going in the opposite direction. We had dinner and tallied up our list which reached around 70 species for the day.

Day 3 – We had breakfast in Calgary and then began driving west towards the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. We spent our day in the vicinity of Cochrane, exploring roads to the N.W. of the town where the mixed forests and sedge wetlands attract a surprising variety of both eastern and western bird species. A stop at a roadside pond was quite productive, as we had two lovely male Hooded Mergansers here, along with a pair of Trumpeter Swans. Other species here included Bufflehead, Lesser Scaup, Blue-winged Teal, Cinnamon Teal, American White Pelican and Double-crested Cormorant. Trotting off across a field was the first of two Coyotes we saw today. Our next stop produced a beautiful pair of Mountain Bluebirds. The males were sky blue throughout, while the female was a study in subtle grays and pale blue colors. Also of interest here, a pair of Yellow-bellied

Great Gray Owl. S.W. of Calgary, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Sapsuckers clung to the telephone poles as we watched them. As we drove a little further down the road, a Blue Jay quickly flashed across the windscreen so I brought the van to a halt as folks jostled for position to see the jay. It was almost difficult for my mouth to produce the words, but they did come out. ‘Great Gray Owl’, I said, as one of these sought after giant owls of the boreal forest glided low across the road. Thankfully the owl landed, in amongst the pole-straight trunks of Lodgepole Pine and White Spruce, and we were able to watch at length, as it silently hunted. In fact, the owl hung around so long that we eventually turned our backs to it and began ticking off other birds. Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Yellow-rumped (Myrtle) Warblers and American Robin were all coming in to inspect the situation.

Before we went for lunch, we explored a boggy area, where I had hoped we might find an Alder Flycatcher. The flycatcher did not cooperate, but as consolation prizes we saw White-throated Sparrow, Lincoln’s Sparrow and a House Wren. Male and female Rose-breasted Grosbeaks were nice to see in the trees alongside the road. We headed back to Cochrane for lunch, stopping briefly along the way to view our first Wilson’s Snipe of the

Yellow-bellied Sapsucker. Cochrane, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

tour, as it sat atop a fence post.

We returned to wooded areas N.W. of Cochrane for the afternoon, first of all, walking through a lovely forest of Trembling Aspen. Birds we found here included Western Wood-Pewee, Least Flycatcher, both Downy and Hairy woodpeckers side by side, Northern (red-shafted) Flicker, Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Clay-colored Sparrow, Hermit Thrush and overhead, a Red-tailed Hawk. Two White-tailed Deer leapt over a fence without any effort at all and carried off into the woodlands. Around a building, where it no doubt had a nest, our only Eastern Phoebe of the tour was seen. We then walked along a section of road that went through a mostly coniferous forest. New species found here included the sought-after Boreal Chickadee, several Blue-headed Vireos, stunning Western Tanagers, a very confiding Golden-crowned Kinglet and a pair of Cape May Warblers! One final stop at some sedge meadows, where I hoped we might find a Le Conte’s Sparrow, did not produce, though we could hear the ticking calls of a Yellow Rail in the distance. Several

White-throated Sparrow. Cochrane, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Wilson’s Snipe did aerial displays, and Red-winged Blackbirds chased one another about, but the sparrows were in hiding today, other than a pair of Clay-colored Sparrows that kept popping into view. As we made our way back to the highway, we passed by a grass fire that had obviously started quite recently, and we were surprised at just how large it had become in that short time. Though some smoke from forest fires far to the north in Alberta made the sky a bit hazy today, as we neared the Rocky Mountains, we began to stare, in awe, at the spectacular scenery the area offered. Once in Banff we got comfortable in our hotel rooms before heading out to El Toro’s for dinner.

Day 4 – Our morning began at 6 AM as we headed out to explore an area close to Banff called the Vermillion Lakes. Along the way we saw some Mule Deer nibbling on flowers in the town and a trio of American Elk on the outskirts of town. The sky was mostly cloudy, but the sun did poke through occasionally, illuminating the snow-capped peaks all around us. It was fairly calm today, and on the lakes there was a nice selection of waterfowl. Up to four male Wood Ducks were spectacular to see in their gaudy breeding plumage. Blue-winged, Cinnamon and Green-winged Teal were seen, along with Barrow’s Goldeneye, Bufflehead, Ruddy Duck, Mallard, American Wigeon and Northern Shoveler! Two Trumpeter Swans flew right over our heads, and of course, we saw the

Group birding at Vermilion Lakes, Banff, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

ubiquitous Canada Goose as well. Kath pointed out a distant adult Bald Eagle sitting atop a coniferous tree across the lake. Through the scope we watched as it flew down towards the edge of the lake and appeared to struggle with some prey for a few moments. Common Loons paddled about, giving their loud, eerie calls that seemed to echo amongst the mountains. A Northern Waterthrush sang from a distant dead tree and we watched through the scope. Also, our first White-crowned Sparrow of the trip posed nicely for views, as did Song Sparrow, Common Yellowthroat, Townsend’s Warbler, Orange-crowned Warbler, and a nice group of mixed male, female and young White-winged Crossbills. A fellow approached us in a truck and showed us a photo of a Black Bear that had crossed the road a few moments earlier. ‘Thanks’, we told the man in the truck, and we quickly loaded up in the van and headed back in the direction of his sighting. Down the slope

Song Sparrow. Banff, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

and through the trees, we spotted him, a lovely brown colored American Black Bear ambling through the open forest. It was a real treat to see the bear, as this was the first bear several of the tour members had ever seen in wild in their lives.

We had a nice, hearty breakfast at Melissa’s and then we had a visit to the Canada House Art Gallery next door. My father, who is a Canadian Artist named Rod Charlesworth, has several pieces of art displayed in the gallery so we enjoyed some of his incredible work. After a failed attempt at the post office to get some stamps, since the line up was too long, we headed west along the Trans Canada to the Bow Valley Parkway. A stretch of the road was closed for construction, unfortunately, as this meant we couldn’t explore an area that is often quite good for birds. At any rate, we made a stop alongside the road in some mixed willows, that is often quite good for warblers. It lived up to my expectations, as we saw three species of warblers we had yet to see on the trip, including Wilson’s Warbler, American Redstart and Yellow Warbler. A pair of Osprey tended to a nest high up on a radio tower, and several Columbian Ground-Squirrels sat on their haunches as they curiously watched what we were up to. Several other cars stopped to see what we were looking at, automatically assuming it was something big and exciting like a Grizzly Bear. When we told them we were just looking at squirrels and warblers they quickly shuffled back to their cars and drove off.

At Johnston Canyon we enjoyed the hike up to Lower Falls, looking all the while for American Dipper along the fast flowing stream. Only Christine was lucky enough to spot one as it flew downstream. Other birds found in the canyon included Dark-eyed Junco,

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Johnston Canyon, Banff, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Townsend’s Warbler, Boreal Chickadee, and Yellow-rumped Warblers. It seems like nearly all the Yellow-rumped warblers in this area are, to some extent, hybrids with Audubon’s and Myrtle. New for our mammal list was the rather cute and charismatic Golden-mantled Ground-Squirrel. We several of these stripe-backed ground-squirrels as they clambered about on the rocks and steep slopes in the canyon this morning. We also enjoyed a little path of delicate Lady Slipper orchids beneath the pine and spruce woods.

After lunch we made our way up to Moraine Lake, one of Canada’s most scenic locations. Towering, snow-covered peaks ring the picturesque glacial lake, while glaciers hanging

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Moraine Lake, Banff, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

from mountaintops seem as though they could break free at any moment. The best bird sighting at Moraine Lake was a male Varied Thrush that sang from the tops of the spruce trees while we watched through the scope. Christine spotted some very distant Clark’s Nutcrackers high up on a slope and we strained to see them through the scope. On the lake itself, which was still mostly frozen, we saw three Barrow’s Goldeneyes. All in all, it was a very memorable visit.

Day 5 -After a tasty breakfast at our hotel, we loaded up our luggage and made two last stops in the area. The first was at Cave and Basin, where we enjoyed the morning sunshine. The birds were enjoying the nice weather as well. We saw Townsend’s Warbler, Yellow-rumped Warblers, and Common Yellowthroat, Song Sparrow, Lincoln’s Sparrow, and Warbling Vireo, the latter of which was the first we had seen on the trip.

Common Yellowthroat. Cave and Basin. Banff, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

On the pond were Ring-necked Ducks, Mallard, Bufflehead, Hooded Merganser and American Coot to name a few species.

Our next stop was at Lake Louise where we joined the throngs of international tourists to take in the spectacular view. While we didn’t see too many birds here, we did see a Golden Eagle high up on a towering mountain.

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Lake Louise, AB. May 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

From Lake Louise we continued west into British Columbia and we made a short ‘pit stop’ at the Visitor’s Center in Field before driving on to Golden where we had lunch. Along the way, we had a glimpse of a very black American Black Bear on the railroad tracks. As we ate lunch outside on the picnic tables, we were entertained by two very nice species. A pair of Western Tanagers foraged down at eye level and two male Lazuli Buntings put on a nice show for us as well. At Beaver Valley, a short stop produced some more nice birds such as our first Vaux’s Swifts and our first Rufous Hummingbird of the trip. Also noted were Northern Waterthrush, Song Sparrows and a pair of Northern

Northern Waterthrush. Canadian Rockies. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Rough-winged Swallows, the latter of which were perched on a dead tree for scope views. Some lovely paintbrush flowers had recently sprouted up along the roadside here. We crossed back over the river via a rather narrow bridge, and continued west towards Revelstoke.

Our final stop of the day was at the Skunk Cabbage Boardwalk. Here, the sun was shining and the temperature was around 30 degrees Celsius. Birds were surprisingly active. Upon arrival we swiftly got onto a Veery, and shortly thereafter, two male American Redstarts began chasing one another about in the bushes nearby. Two Gray Catbirds popped up out of the vegetation briefly now and then, but for the most part it they remained well hidden. Perhaps the star of the show here was a male

Rufous Hummingbird. B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Rufous Hummingbird. The fiery-colored little gem zoomed from perch to perch, and each time he turned his head his iridescent gorget flashed at us. Song Sparrows seemed to be around every corner, and they were. We watched some Pine Siskins, as they fed on willow catkins alongside the boardwalk. The rather gargantuan Skunk Cabbages were also quite interesting to see, and despite their names, they did not stink.

The drive to Salmon Arm was pleasant, and we came down significantly in elevation. Vegetation changed considerably during our journey today, with tree types varying from pine and spruce at higher elevations, to cedar and cottonwood along valley bottom areas. The Trans Canada Highway seemed to follow the shores of Shuswap Lake forever before we reached Salmon Arm. Dinner tonight was at an Italian Restaurant and it was very nice.

Day 6 – Emerging from our hotel at 6 AM, we headed down to the shore of Shuswap Lake at the Salmon Arm Pier. It was a beautiful morning, with sunshine and calm winds, which made the lake very flat, making it easy to spot birds on it. Western Grebes were numerous but most were quite far away, making it difficult to scan through them in

Osprey with nest. Salmon Arm, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

search of the similar, but much rarer Clark’s Grebe. Some of the Western Grebes did come in fairly close however, and patient observers even saw them doing their courtship dance and they run across the water in sync with each other. A pair of Ospreys put on a great show, as the female sat on a light preening, while her mate sat on the nest and watched. The swallows were also star attractions this morning as several species, including Tree, Violet-green, Cliff and Barn swallows perched in trees for great scope views. Amongst a group of Canada Geese we were rather surprised to see a Cackling Goose as well. This smaller relative to the Canada Goose should have migrated north in March or April, but this bird may have had an injury that prevented it from migrating. Nonetheless, we were pretty pleased as the Cackling Goose was a lifer for almost everyone present. A group of several Green-winged Teal paddled along at the

Lesser Scaup, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

edge of the reeds, our first ‘good’ view of the tour. There were many Ring-billed Gulls about along with one adult California Gull. Two Caspian Terns were a nice surprise as they gave their raucous calls while flying past at the end of the pier. We explored a short promenade through the wetlands, which gave us views of a pond where several ducks were present. There were Cinnamon and Blue-winged teal, Northern Shoveler, American Wigeon, Redhead, Lesser Scaup, and some gorgeous Wood Ducks here. Pied-billed Grebes were seen by one or two lucky observers. Yellow-headed Blackbirds, Red-winged Blackbirds and Brewer’s Blackbirds were all here, and they were none too happy when a Cooper’s Hawk descended into the wetlands where they had their nests. House Finches visited a feeder that was stuck to a large window on a lakeside house. Hesitantly, we raised our binoculars to look at the House Finches, someone saying, ‘I hope they don’t think we’re spying.’ We returned to our hotel for breakfast.

After breakfast we returned to the foreshore, this time exploring the Christmas Island Trail. Shortly after embarking on our walk, we had another first for the trip in the scope, a Willow Flycatcher. The flycatcher sat obligingly in a dead tree, occasionally giving its sneezy ‘fitzbew’ song. Song Sparrows and Common Yellowthroats kept popping up in the marshes. We came to a pond where a Beaver had been busy at work. Many of the trees

Willow Flycatcher. Salmon Arm, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

had been gnawed by the wood-loving mammal, and we could see his lodge amongst the reeds, though we never did see the actual Beaver. A walk down a short boardwalk produced our first sighting of Ring-necked Pheasants, as a couple of males sat in a willow tree. A Belted Kingfisher made an all to brief appearance in some willows along the shore before disappearing for good. Once we got to Christmas Island we saw a full breeding plumage Red-necked Grebe, our first of the trip, as well as Spotted Sandpiper, Killdeer, more Ospreys, and the thriving colony of Ring-billed Gulls. A Red-eyed Vireo flitted to and fro in the branches of a tall cottonwood tree. Another surprise sighting, a Yellow-breasted Chat sang from across the railroad tracks and then popped into view for several nice sightings. This species is not normally found at Salmon Arm, but rather it is most often found in the southern Okanagan Valley, a couple hundred kilometers to the south. We stood atop a rickety viewing deck and after a bit of scanning, I finally picked out a Clark’s Grebe in the distance. On our return walk we saw some nice butterflies, including Lorquin’s Admiral, Common Swallowtail, Milbert’s Tortoiseshell and Mourning Cloak.

It was close to 30 degrees by now so we were quite happy to retreat inside a restaurant with air-conditioning for lunch. We then visited one more location in Salmon Arm, the

Marsh Wren. Canadian Rockies. 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Peter Jannink Nature Park, before we went to Kamloops. At the nature park we were treated to views of a pair of Cedar Waxwings as they gathered nesting material in the bills and then flew off together. A male Northern Flicker sat on a shady branch high in a cottonwood and we peered through the scope, trying to decide if there was a red moustache present or not. Presence of the red moustache, which it did have, proved the bird to be a male. One last look out at Shuswap Lake and we saw much of the same; Western Grebes, Wood Duck, Gadwall, American Coot and Redhead. We followed the South Thompson River to Kamloops, noting the extent of growth of the invasive Russian Olive tree along its shores. The first stately Ponderosa Pines began appearing along the banks of the river as well, and overall, the hillsides were covered in grasslands, indicative of the area’s drier climate. We checked into our hotel up on the hill to the north of Kamloops and later went for dinner at Earl’s.

Day 7 – After a visit to the supermarket to pick up lunch we crossed over the Thompson River and headed for Lac Du Bois Road on the north shore of Kamloops. It was yet another lovely morning, with sunshine, though throughout the day the skies clouded up. We took a walk through the sagebrush in search of a Burrowing Owl, but we didn’t find any. There were Clay-colored, Chipping, Vesper and Savannah sparrows and Western Meadowlarks however. We bumped into a couple of hikers and they told us they had

Burrowing Owl. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

seen Burrowing Owl a little ways down the road so we followed their directions. We were slowly driving along when John yelped, ‘There, on the pipe.’ There it was, a Burrowing Owl sitting on a pipe right next to the road. When we drove back down the road hours later, the owl was still sitting there in the same place.

As we continued up the dusty road we paused at several little ponds and wetlands to see what sorts of ducks were about, and there was a nice variety. Included were Ruddy Ducks, Mallard, Gadwall, American Wigeon, Blue-winged, Cinnamon and Green-winged teal, Northern Shoveler, Lesser Scaup, Barrow’s Goldeneye, Bufflehead, Ring-necked Duck and Hooded Merganser. American Coot, Eared Grebe and Pied-billed Grebe were also seen. Yellow-headed Blackbirds, Marsh Wren, Song Sparrows and the other usual marsh dwellers were noted.

A stop at an aspen grove proved most productive. Upon arrival we had great views of a male Red-naped Sapsucker here, and soon thereafter we watched a male Hairy

Red-naped Sapsucker. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Woodpecker feed its young at a nest cavity. Willow and Dusky flycatchers were seen, the latter of which was a first for the trip. As we drove along towards our lunch stop, Cath spotted a large bird in flight and it turned out to be a Sandhill Crane!

We had lunch at Isobel Lake, while watching a pair of loons, one of which was on a nest. After lunch we took a stroll through the mixed Douglas Fir / Engelmann Spruce forest, finding Hammond’s Flycatcher, Orange-crowned Warbler, Warbling Vireo, Swainson’s Thrush, Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee, and Dark-eyed Junco. We also happened to finally find some mosquitos too! A Pileated Woodpecker flew across Isobel Lake and landed in a tall snag on the other side. We had pretty good views of it in the scope before it disappeared. The little wetland at Isobel Lake provided good views of Marsh Wren and excellent views of a Virginia Rail that was poking along the edge of the reeds. In addition to the birds, we enjoyed a nice showing of wildflowers today, with the

Virginia Rail. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

likes of Rosy Pussytoes, Pearly Everlasting, Thompson Paintbrush and Heart-leaved Arnica covering the meadows.

On our way back to Kamloops, we stopped at a wetland where we tried to get views of a Pied-billed Grebe, but he was having none of it, and staying submerged in the slimy water, with nothing visible except for his poking up like a snorkel from time to time. On a distant snag, an Olive-sided Flycatcher sallied out for insects, while on the opposite side of the road, a female Cassin’s Finch adorned the top of a Douglas Fir for a few moments before flying off. Further down the road we had three Turkey Vultures feeding on what appeared to be a dead Black Bear. A stop at Lac du Bois provided us with sensational views of a little male Calliope Hummingbird. He was perched atop a bush and whenever he turned his head, his streaked gorget changed from black to vibrant pink. On Lac du Bois itself were

Turkey Vulture. Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

a couple of Red-necked Grebes. A Mountain Bluebird flew across the road as we passed through an area of sagebrush, and we paid our respects to the Burrowing Owl, still sitting on his perch, as we passed by. This evening we had dinner at an Indian Restaurant where the food was very nice and the view was breathtaking.

Day 8 -After picking up our lunches we made our way to Separation Lake, along Hwy 5A, south of Kamloops. It was sunny but breezy and cool this morning. The lake had a few ducks on it such as Bufflehead, Lesser Scaup, Redhead, Ruddy Duck and Gadwall. Spotted Sandpipers and Killdeer were present along the shoreline. Lovely rolling grasslands surround the lake, and in them we found Vesper and Savannah sparrows, Western Meadowlarks and a family group of 5 Say’s Phoebes that were hanging out around a log chopping operation. In the skies were several raptor species including Northern Harrier, Red-tailed Hawk, Swainson’s Hawk and Bald Eagle. A Western Kingbird sat on a fence post in the distance, providing our first view of this species on the trip.

Carrying on south along Hwy 5A, our next stop was along Planet Mine Road, where open grassland with Ponderosa Pines provides habitat for Lewis’s Woodpeckers. We saw at

Lewis’s Woodpecker. Hwy 5A, south of Kamloops, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

least three of this gorgeous and unusual woodpeckers here this morning. A pair of the Lewis’s were nesting in a pine snag, along with a Pygmy Nuthatch who has also had a nest in the same tree. In the woods further away Clark’s Nutcrackers gave their raspy calls and an American Kestrel sat atop a dead tree.

We had a quick ‘pit stop’ at Quilchena where we visited the local General Store, built in 1912, next the Quilchena Motel, built in 1908. We then found some picnic tables along the shores of Nicola Lake where we had lunch. It was quite breezy however. We passed through the town of Merritt and traveled up and over the Coquihalla Connector to Peachland. Here, we stopped in at my house where we were greeted by my wife Cindy. We had a cup of coffee or tea and watched the birdbath outside as Cassin’s Finch and House Finch came in to feed and drink. Because of bear problems, my seed feeders had to come so unfortunately there were less birds about that I had hoped. Some people did catch a glimpse of the rather elusive MacGillivray’s Warbler in my backyard, however.

After a quick stop in West Kelowna to pick up some maps, we carried on to Rose Valley where a lovely walk up through the wooded canyon produced some nice birds. There were Nashville Warblers about, our first for the tour, along with Pacific-slope Flycatcher, another new species for us. Male Black-headed Grosbeaks chased one another about,

Western Screech-Owl. West Kelowna, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

while Western Tanagers sang from the tops of the fir trees. Veeries cave their ethereal songs from the riparian growth, and a tiny Calliope Hummingbird sat high up on a bush. A Western Screech-Owl was a nice addition to the trip list as well. A Lazuli Bunting sat out for us all to admire his gaudy plumage. All in all, it was a lovely walk.

We arrived at our hotel in Kelowna, after I took the group on a little scenic tour through the downtown area of Kelowna, and then we were joined by Cindy and my son Carsen for dinner at a local Greek establishment.

Day 9 – From Kelowna, we headed east this morning, up Hwy 33 to an area of grasslands where we paused and saw our first lovely Western Bluebirds, a pair, and they were feeding young in a next box. Also here, were Vesper Sparrow, Eastern Kingbird, and Tree Swallow. A fellow stopped and told us he had nesting owls in his backyard. Despite his instructions we never did find the nest. Another fellow told us a Great Gray was on a fence just up the road. We headed in that direction, but never did find the owl. Some speculated they were just making things up. We will never know. The mixed forests along Sun Valley Road were quite ‘birdy’ with nice sightings of Western Tanager, Dark-

Pacific-slope Flycatcher. Okanagan Valley, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

eyed Junco, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Mountain Chickadee, and more, as well our first Townsend’s Solitaire and Cassin’s Vireo of the trip. We explored a fairly recent burn on Philpott Road, hoping for at least a sniff at the rare and elusive Black-backed Woodpecker, but we had no luck. A MacGillivray’s Warbler sat nicely in the open for an extended period of time, allowing everyone excellent scope views of this usually rather shy and retiring warbler. Further down the road we encountered a little group of Chestnut-backed Chickadees, and everyone agreed these were the most attractive of the four chickadee species we had seen on the tour. While I’m partial to the Boreal Chickadee, I’ll admit the Chestnut-backed is indeed more colorful.

We had lunch along the shores of Hydraulic Lake, and it was cool and breezy. A bit of a surprise to me was the presence of a single Greater Yellowlegs here along the shore. A Common Loon sat on its nest on a little grassy island offshore. Along Big White Road, we stopped and explored the subalpine forest at close to 6000 feet elevation. Though birds were not overly numerous, there were high quality species seen this afternoon. Boreal Chickadees were seen very well for the third time on the tour, though this was the first we’d seen of them in British Columbia. Hermit Thrush posed nicely, along with great

Steller’s Jay. Big White, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

views of Olive-sided Flycatcher, Brown Creeper, Northern Waterthrush, and most surprising to me, a Solitary Sandpiper, the latter of which was on a small pond, excellent breeding habitat for this species. We popped up to the Big White Ski Village, a thriving metropolis of activity in the winter, but a bit like a big white ghost town during the summer. At one chalet with a feeder we watched our first Steller’s Jays of the tour come in to feed. There were about 8 of the jays, along with Mountain Chickadee and White-crowned Sparrow. There were also Red Squirrels and Columbian Ground-Squirrels about as well.

Back in Kelowna we went out for dinner, joined by Cindy and Carsen.

Day 10 – We left Kelowna this morning, stopping in at Hardy Falls in Peachland on our way along Hwy 97, south. It was a glorious walk up through the canyon, with mixed vegetation, providing cover and food for a variety of birds. The creek is also a big attraction here, as the trail meanders over about half a dozen wooden bridges during its 1+ km length up to the falls. Finally we saw American Dippers! There was an adult up

American Dipper. Peachland, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

near the falls and a juvenile further down the stream. Other birds here included Nashville Warbler, Veery, Pacific-slope Flycatcher, a singing immature male American Redstart, Black-headed Grosbeak and Western Tanager. Near the parking lot, we enjoyed views of the comical California Quails, as well as a flycatching Say’s Phoebe.

Carrying on south, we stopped in at Penticton, where a large weedy field near the local airport had produced recent sightings of Grasshopper Sparrow. We did indeed see the sparrow, but it was through the scope, and a fair distance away. Other birds here, included Bullock’s Oriole, Western Meadowlark, Gray Catbird, Eastern Kingbird and Ring-necked Pheasant.

Turning onto White Lake Rd, we paused at the entrance to Three Gates Farm where we had our first White-breasted Nuthatches of the tour, along with Red-breasted Nuthatch and Pygmy Nuthatch as well. Mountain Chickadee, Black-headed Grosbeak, and even

California Quail. Peachland, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Calliope Hummingbird were also seen here amongst the Ponderosa Pines. We had lunch where we could see White Lake, and we scanned the lake with scopes, finding Cinnamon Teal, Ruddy Duck, Gadwall, Northern Shoveler, Green-winged Teal and Mallard. A female Northern Harrier sailed out over the sagebrush on several occasions, while the loud, ringing songs of Western Meadowlarks could be heard continuously. We spied a Mountain Bluebird, as well as Eastern and Western kingbirds, Tree Swallows and an American Kestrel. Sparrows were uncooperative here today and there was no sign of Sage Thrasher, unfortunately.

We descended back down to the valley bottom at Okanagan Falls, and then climbed up once again into the mountains east of town, specifically at Dutton Creek. Here, we had a very nice experience with a Barred Owl and a Northern Pygmy-Owl, as we watched them both, minutes apart. The pygmy owl may have been nesting in the area, and the Barred

barred owl
Barred Owl. Okanagan Falls, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Owl is a resident at this location. The Barred sat on a branch in a spruce tree giving his deep, barking, ‘who cooks for you, all’ calls. Each time he hooted, his throat and neck puffed up in a comical display. Before heading back down to the valley, we tried an area of larch trees for Williamson’s Sapsucker, and we succeeded in finding a pair of these rather uncommon and attractive woodpeckers.

Back down in the valley, we had a stop at the cliffs at Vaseux Lake where we enjoyed nice views of a singing Canyon Wren, as well as several White-throated Swifts flying overhead. A flock of 8 or so California Bighorn Sheep were foraging on the cliffs here this afternoon, with several ewes and youngsters following close behind. Before heading to

bighorn sheep
Bighorn Sheep. Vaseux Lake Cliffs, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Osoyoos, we made one more stop, at River Road, where it didn’t take us long to find the bird we had stopped here for, Black-chinned Hummingbird. We went out for Italian tonight in Osoyoos.

Day 11 – Today was an action packed day, and the weather was just right, for most of the day, with mixed sun and cloud and comfortable temperatures. Our morning began along Road 22 where we watched several male Bobolinks perform over the hay fields. We enjoyed seeing a colony of Cliff Swallows tending to nests under a concrete bridge. Also, several Ospreys were seen on nests and through the scope we saw a Peregrine Falcon sitting on a cliff. We had our first encounter with the attractive Lark Sparrow here today.

Next, we picked up lunch and headed for the Richter Pass, west of town. Our first stop was at lower Kruger Mountain Road. Here, we found the birds to be very active. There were Red Crossbills, Black-headed Grosbeak, Western Bluebird, Say’s Phoebe, House Wren, Western Wood-Pewee, Cassin’s Finch and much more. We had several looks at

Lesser Goldfinch female. Osoyoos, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Lesser Goldfinches here, with at least two males and a female present. This species is known to occur regularly in Canada at only this location, and they have been present for just under a year, having moved north from Washington State populations. At a pond, we added Hooded Merganser, Barrow’s Goldeneye, and Gadwall to the day list. Bullock’s Orioles were noted here, and while I went and retrieved the van, the group saw another Lark Sparrow.

We headed up Kobau Road into an area of extensively burned forest, with high hopes of finding some woodpeckers. We did manage to find several Hairy Woodpeckers and Northern Flickers, and we spent some time searching for the rather rare Black-backed Woodpecker, with limited success. I say limited success because the bird appeared right next to the road just as everyone else was in the van, except Heather and I who had brief looks at it. Other than woodpeckers, we saw Dusky Flycatcher, Warbling Vireo, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Townsend’s Solitaire, MacGillivray’s Warbler and Lazuli Bunting. The

Hermit Thrush. B.C. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

views of the valley below were quite good, as was the showing of wildflowers on the mountain, with Scarlet Gilia, Shrubby Penstemon, Heart-leaved Arnica and Arrow-leaved Balsamroot dominating the scene. We pulled up next to a Vesper Sparrow to watch as it sang from the top of a bush, and suddenly Nigel shouted, ‘Bear!’. Sure enough, a young blackish colored Black Bear scrambled up the hillside and out of sight. Another interesting mammal encounter, on the way down we pulled up next to the den of a Yellow-bellied Marmot. The marmot sat right at the entrance to his den and stared right back at us.

We headed back to the hotel where some decided to get take the rest of the afternoon off, while 4 of us headed back out into the field. We went to McKinney Road in Oliver, where,

Gray Flycatcher. Oliver, B.C. June 2019.

in the Ponderosa Pines, we found a Gray Flycatcher. Though this flycatcher pretty much looks like all the other empidonax flycatchers, it is grayer overall, with a longer bill and a distinctive way of wagging its tail. The Gray Flycatcher occurs in Canada only in a few locations in the Central and South Okanagan Valley, and the first nesting of the species in Canada wasn’t documented until the late 1980s.

After dinner we headed out to do some nocturnal birding. It was a rather chilly night, which may have kept the Flammulated Owls quiet, as we didn’t see or hear any. We did, however, have a great experience with several Common Poorwills in the hills west of Osoyoos this evening. There were several poorwills calling, along with Common Nighthawks as well, though we never did see the latter species on this tour, which is surely a first in the many trips I’ve done. The poorwills performed well though, sitting on the road for excellent views in the beam of a flashlight.

Common Poorwill. Osoyoos, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Nigel Oram.

Day 12 – It was time to leave the Okanagan, so reluctantly we left the vineyards, lakes, orchards and sagebrush of the valley and made our way west, stopping at one last place,

Lark Sparrow. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

the Nighthawk border crossing. We found several Brewer’s Sparrows here, a rather uncommon and local resident in the Okanagan, alongside Lark Sparrow, and a nesting Western Kingbird. The kingbird had built its nest against an insulator in a power pole. As we continued along Hwy 3 through the Similkameen Valley, we were paused for twenty minutes or so as an accident cleared up. Once traffic started moving again, we took a quick spin down Barcelo Road, and we were rewarded with a great view of an adult Golden Eagle soaring overhead, and then landing on a snag on a hillside.

As we near Princeton, we made a quick stop at Taylor Way where we scanned a rocky hillside, and found a white, shaggy-coated Mountain Goat scampering up the talus slope. We picked up lunch in Princeton and drove on to Manning Park lodge where we braved the rather chilly temperatures and had lunch outside. We were joined by hungry

Clark’s Nutcracker. Manning Park, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Columbian Ground-Squirrels, Brown-headed Cowbirds, a Common Raven and Steller’s Jays, as well as our first up close and personal Clark’s Nutcracker of the trip. The rest of the afternoon was spent driving through the Fraser Valley towards Richmond, where we would spend the final two nights of the tour. Along the way, we noted Northwestern Crows, a slightly smaller cousin to the American Crow we had been seeing throughout the trip thus far. Northwestern Crows occur along the Pacific Coast, mainly between Alaska and Washington State. We had dinner at a pub in the local ice rink this evening.

Day 13 – From Richmond we drove across Vancouver and its towering skyscrapers, through Stanley Park and over the Lions Gate Bridge to the North Shore. We explored Lighthouse Park, descending from the parking area down to the shoreline, via a trail through old-growth temperate rainforest. The trees were impressive, with some Douglas Firs, Western Red Cedars and Western Hemlocks over 500  years old. Some of the highlight bird species included a male Black-throated Gray Warbler, several tiny Pacific Wrens singing loudly from moss covered branches, and good looks at both Orange-crowned and MacGillivray’s warblers. Down at the lighthouse itself we saw Anna’s and

Bald Eagle. West Vancouver, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Rufous hummingbirds coming in to feed at a feeder. An adult Bald Eagle sat atop a weathervane, while an immature bird, lacking the white head and tail, sailed past at treetop level. Out over the ocean we caught our first glimpses of Pelagic Cormorants as they flew low over the surface of the water. Glaucous-winged Gulls were also seen, another new species for the trip. We added two more mammal species at Lighthouse Park as well, the first, a Douglas Squirrel, the coastal counterpart of the Red Squirrel. The second mammal was a pod of 3-4 Orcas out on the Salish Sea. We watched the spout and saw their large dorsal fins through the scopes.

We picked up lunch and took it down to the beach at Ambleside Park in West Vancouver. Here, we had excellent views of Northwestern Crows and Glaucous-winged Gulls as they came in to mooch for scraps. Out on the water, we saw more Pelagic Cormorants, and someone pointed out a breeding plumage Pigeon Guillemot as well, the only one for the tour. Up to 6 Harlequin Ducks were seen feeding along the edge of a gravel bar, and Great Blue Herons also poked about in the shallows. We saw the heads of Harbor Seals poking above the surface of the water as well. On a small pond nearby, we saw Northern Pintail as well as some Mute Swans with little cygnets.

The rest of the afternoon was spent on Cypress Mountain. We hiked around the cross country ski trails and the Hollyburn Lodge and were rewarded with several fantastic views of our fourth and final sapsucker species for the tour, the Red-breasted Sapsucker. In fact, the four sapsuckers we saw on the tour encompass all four sapsucker species found on the planet. We also saw other birds typical of west coast forests like Swainson’s

canada jay
Canada Jay. Cypress Mtn. W. Vancouver, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

Thrush, Varied Thrush, Townsend’s Warbler, and Chestnut-backed Chickadee. At the Hollyburn Lodge we found a little group of adult and immature Canada Jays. The jays, who were very friendly, came and investigated the group, landing on our tripods and one even sat atop Eva’s hat! Heather pointed out the namesake cypress tree of Cypress Mountain, the Yellow Cypress, one of which was the largest known tree in the park and its trunk was massive. On the way down the mountain we stopped at a viewpoint and enjoyed sweeping views of Vancouver below. A few Vaux’s Swifts sailed by and a Band-tailed Pigeon obligingly landed on a treetop providing the best and practically the only views of this species we had for the trip. Back in Richmond, we had our final dinner out as a group this evening.

Vancouver, B.C., from Cypress Mtn. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth

Day 14 – For most of us, it was our final morning in Canada. Tony and Eva were staying on to visit their son and I, of course, wasn’t leaving the country, but the rest of the group had to catch a flight back to London this evening. We made the best of the day, heading out first to the ferry jetty at Tsawwassen. It didn’t take us long to find our target species here, Black Oystercatchers. As an added bonus, about half a dozen Brant were hanging

Black Oystercatcher. Tsawwassen, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

out on a sandbar here. Out on the water we saw more Pelagic Cormorants, a Common Loon and we saw several more Bald Eagles in the area. On our way to Tsawwassen we passed by the landfill and we must have seen 40-50 Bald Eagles in a very short time.

A quick stop at an old barn did not produce a Barn Owl, unfortunately, so we carried on to the George C. Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary. On the entrance road we paused to see some Bushtits as they foraged in the bushes near the road. Once at Reifel we headed out on the trails and we were surrounded by Mallard and Canada Geese, along with a few very lovely Wood Ducks. We encountered a pair of Sandhill Cranes, one apparently an adult and the other last years’ young, as they foraged close the edge of the trail. Black-capped Chickadees followed us about on the trails but refused to eat the seeds from our hands. A Brown Creeper crept up the trunk of a fir tree,

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Wood Duck. Reifel Refuge. Ladner, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

and was just the second sighting of this species on the trip. We saw our first and only Bewick’s Wren as it sang loudly from a perch just over the trail. More Bushtits, along with American Goldfinch, Cedar Waxwing, Song Sparrows, Spotted Towhees and Marsh Wrens put in appearances as well. We scanned over a large marsh, eventually spotting a couple of Purple Martins sailing overhead. A male Common Yellowthroat, the masked bandit, showed nicely as well. From the observation tower we had a fly-over of both male and female Purple Martins and we saw a couple of Long-billed Dowitchers probing away in the mud. Green-winged, Cinnamon and Blue-winged teal were noted, along with Gadwall, and Northern Pintail. Just before we left the park, we watched some hummingbird feeders where Rufous and Anna’s hummingbirds were coming in to feed.

We had lunch at Moxie’s in Richmond before making one final stop at Iona Island and Vancouver’s sewage treatment plant. The highlight here was seeing more Purple Martins

Sandhill Crane. Reifel Refuge, Ladner, B.C. June 2019. Photo: Chris Charlesworth.

at close range near their nest boxes along the edge of the Fraser River. We had final looks at birds like Cedar Waxwing, Spotted Towhee, Spotted Sandpiper, Bald Eagle and Double-crested Cormorant before I took the group to the airport where we said our goodbyes. It was a great trip, and I thoroughly enjoyed showing these 7 folks everything from the prairies and the Rocky Mountains all the way to the vineyards of the Okanagan and the coastal rainforests and blue waters of the Salish Sea in Vancouver. We had amassed a species list of 211 different birds, as well as many mammals, trees, flowers, butterflies and other natural wonders.

Chris Charlesworth

Northern Colombia & The Eastern White Sands Forests ~ Mar 21 – Apr 7, 2019.

The 2019 Colombia itinerary was designed to complement the previous two tours which had focused on the hotspots in the western and central Andes as well as sites within a few hours drive of Bogota. To that end on this tour we focussed on the north coast with a stop at the north end of the eastern Andes to kick off the tour. After completing the northern circuit we went for something completely different: a flight out to the northern Amazon basin at Puerto Inirida, near the border with Venezuela and just 30km from the mighty Orinoco River! Here we finished the tour with four days of birding the White Sand Forest, a habitat that is localized in the northern Amazon basin but quite common in this area. This unique habitat has many species that are endemic to it that are highly sought after by world birders. In this area we spent a fair bit of time on the river which provided us with an incredible encounter with a pod of Amazon River Dolphins as well as a passing Giant River Otter! The tour was our most diverse Colombia itinerary so far in terms species as we totalled 590 species over the 16 days, of which ~530 were seen by the group.

March 22 – After meeting up in Bogota the evening before the tour started with a mid-morning flight to Bucaramanga from where the group of 8 Canadians plus guide Avery Bartels piled into three pickups for the 3hr journey to the Cerulean Warbler Reserve near San Vicente de Chucuri. After about an hour we stopped at a restaurant overlooking a reservoir where we enjoyed some nice birding from the balcony. While waiting for our food to arrive we found our first Colombian endemic, an obliging Apical Flycatcher. A

Lineated Woodpecker. Cerulean Warbler Reserve, Colombia. March 22, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Great Black Hawk was perched nearby while a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture soared in the distance. Around the restaurant there was plenty of bird activity and we had our first Spectacled Parrotlets, Crimson-backed Tanagers and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters.

After passing through San Vicente we climbed up the steep dirt track to the lodge. En route we made two stops in the plantations where we picked up a couple more endemics in Colombian Chachalaca and a skulky Niceforo’s Wren. A fine male Yellow-backed Tanager was one of the first birds we saw while a pair of Bar-crested Antshrikes showed up as we were looking for the wren. Forest Elaenia, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet and Slate-headed Tody-flycatcher were among several flycatcher species seen. At the lodge we had time to check out the Hummingbird feeders briefly before dark and pick up our final endemic of the day, the common Indigo-capped Hummingbird.

March 23 – After a lot of rain over night our plans to climb up to the reserve proper were foiled by continuing showers that lasted until around 9am. We decided to stick around the lodge and bird the plantations instead which ended up being a good plan as we had fog and more rain again until around 2:30pm when it finally cleared up. As we waited out the rain under the shelter of the covered balcony post-breakfast we got scope views

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Common Potoo. Cerulean Warbler Reserve, Colombia. March 23, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

on a few occasions of up to four of the endemic Turquoise Dacnises! We also got nice views of Collared Aracari, Rufous-naped Greenlet, Yellow-legged Thrush and Orange-crowned Oriole. The hummingbird and banana feeders also provided us with ample photography. A short walk down the road from the lodge produced a roosting Common Potoo and our first Yellow-tailed Orioles along with a surprise pair of White-fringed Antwrens. A Yellow-browed Shrike-vireo sang once but could not be located.

After lunch we decided to walk a trail behind the lodge that lead up to a new set of hummingbird feeders that the forest guard had recently put out where he had found a Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird. This is one of the hardest endemics in this region and we were fortunate that we got prolonged views of it as it came to the feeder and perched in the tree overhead for over half an hour! Activity around the feeders was good as well and we had many migrants such as Bay-breasted, Canada, Blackburnian, Tennessee and Black-and-white Warblers. As we made our way back to the lodge Avery got a very quick look at a male Golden-winged Warbler that unfortunately disappeared before the group could get on it. Fortunately, a nearby family of Yellow-backed Orioles were more confiding. After dinner we heard a Tropical Screech-owl calling in the

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Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird. Cerulean Warbler Reserve. Colombia. March 23, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

distance though it was too far away to be coaxed in.

March 24 – At 6am we embarked on the 1.5km walk up to the reserve proper. The weather was clear and it was a beautiful, and fairly birdy, hike up. Unfortunately it took a lot longer than anticipated and we did not arrive at the hummingbird/wood-quail feeders at the reserve entrance until 9:30. As we climbed up we enjoyed near constant bird activity including wide-spread open country species such as Pale-breasted Spinetail, Bran-colored Flycatcher and Fork-tailed Flycatcher as well as a couple soaring Aplomado Falcons. There were also a few surprises in store for us as a pair of Apical Flycatcher greeted us at the beginning of the trail and partway up we ran into a confiding Masked Yellowthroat. The most interesting find of the morning though was an Ash-throated Crake calling from the pasture. This species is widespread in Amazonian

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The aptly named Black Inca. Cerulean Warbler Reserve, Colombia. March 24, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

lowlands but only rarely wanders to this side of Andes.

At the feeders in the forest we enjoyed prolonged views at the superb Black Incas along with a supporting cast of Andean Emeralds, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Booted Racket-tails and a lone male Long-tailed Sylph. A covey of the endemic Gorgeted Wood-quail responded from nearby to a burst of playback but did not come into the feeder as hoped for. A few hours mid-day along the forest trail was quite quiet but we did come across a couple Collared Trogons, Ornate Flycatcher, and a skulky White-bellied Antpitta that only allowed for the briefest of glimpses. A canopy flock produced Speckled and Golden Tanagers as well as a lone White-winged Tanager for Ken.

Before heading back down to the lodge in the mid-afternoon (after a delicious lunch brought up to us by Douglas, the forest guard) we made another stop in at the feeders. A pair of Chestnut-capped Brushfinches were at the seed and a Moustached Puffbird perched stolidly nearby. This would be our first of 8 species of Puffbird on this trip!
As we made our way back down to the lodge a distant Recurve-billed Bushbird called

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Chestnut-winged Chachalaca. Barranquilla, Colombia. March 25, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

from the slopes opposite the trail.

March 25 – After breakfast we piled back into our trucks to make the transfer to Bucaramanga for our late-morning flight to Barranquilla via Bogota. A few stops en route produced a Barred Puffbird, expertly spotted by Joyce as it gave it’s wolf-whistle, Olivaceous Piculet (our first of 5 Piculet species!) and Gray-headed Tanager.

By 3:45 we were at the University grounds on the outskirts of Barranquilla where we enjoyed some nice birds in the dry coastal heat. No sooner had we hopped out of our vehicles than we were looking at a troop of endemic Chestnut-winged Chachalacas

Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird. Barranquilla, Colombia. March 25, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

moving about in the tops of the desert scrub. After getting our fill we wandered down to a flowering tree that held another endemic, a gorgeous male Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird who put on a nice show for us, foraging and perching for extended views. This was followed by Whooping Motmot, Spot-breasted Woodpecker, Yellow Oriole and another target, the Chestnut Piculet.

March 26 – Heading east of Barranquilla at first light we made our way to the mangroves of Isla Salamanca National Park. Here we spent a very productive 1.5hrs. Bicolored Conebill and Panama Flycatcher foraged in the mangroves themselves along with a migrant Prothonotary Warbler. At the water’s edge we spied a few Pied Water-tyrants and a Yellow-chinned Spinetail along with both Green and Striated

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Golden-green Woodpecker. Isla Salamanca, Colombia. March 26, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels. 

Herons. The best was yet to come though as a stunning female Golden-green Woodpecker posed nicely for us before a flock of nearly 20 Bronzed Cowbirds (of the endemic “Bronzed-brown” form, often split from the widespread form) were spotted perched in the mangrove ahead of us. This endemic bird is severely threatened and this represents the highest number noted in ebird!

After a field breakfast back at the van we backtracked a bit to the Km 4 road, a birding site that passes through fields and wetland habitats with some adjacent scrub. Here we found one of our targets, Stripe-backed Wren, to be common while a flock of 7 Turquoise-winged Parrotlets, another tricky endemic (!), allowed us extended scope views as they preened nearby. Moving on we encountered our first Scaled Doves, Snail Kites and Russet-throated Puffbirds. A Crane Hawk flew over and a few very large Iguanas were spotted. At a small wetland we turned around though not before noting a fine male White-headed Marsh-tyrant, Limpkin and several calling migrant Soras.

Driving east along the Cienega causeway we made a couple stops for waders though the very dry conditions meant that there was nothing like the usual numbers. A lone Gull-billed Tern and a few dozen Royal Terns were present along with a smattering of Semipalmated and Black-bellied Plovers, both Yellowlegs , Least Sandpiper and Black-necked Stilt.

After lunch at the Hotel Minca in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta

Santa Marta Blossomcrown. El Dorado Lodge, Colombia. March 26, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

we enjoyed the hummingbird feeders being frequented by White-necked Jacobin, Steely-vented Hummingbird and White-vented Plumeleteer along with singles of Pale-bellied Hermit and Brown Violetear. We then started the extraordinarily bumpy journey up to the El Dorado Lodge. Along the way we made several birding stops seeing roosting Black-and-white Owl, Groove-billed Toucanet, Rufous-and-white Wren and a Rusty Flowerpiercer. The endemics were proving extremely difficult, something we would find to be the case throughout the next two days. Fortunately, a wonderful male Santa Marta Blossomcrown showed for several minutes at the tienda making up for our dip on the Santa Marta Antbird. As dusk set in we finally arrived at our accommodations for the next two nights, the El Dorado Lodge.

March 27
At 5am we piled into our pickups and drove up to the San Lorenzo ridge, spotting a Band-winged Nightjar en route. Unfortunately we were denied the spectacular view of the Sierra Nevada at sunrise by haze/cloud that enshrouded the distant peaks but we soon forgot about that as the birding started the minute we stepped out of the vehicles. A tame Santa Marta Brushfinch hopped about at our feet while another group who arrived before us had a pair of shy Santa Marta Warblers lined up in the bamboo at the roadside. We soon added Black-cheeked (aka Santa Marta) Mountain-tanager and a pair of Plushcaps buzzed through as we had our breakfast and waited

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Black-cheeked Mountain-tanager. El Dorado Reserve, Colombia. March 27, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

for the Santa Marta Parakeets to show up at their favoured Eucalyptus nearby. Alas, the parakeets never showed (only Avery heard one calling very distantly) so we started birding our way up the road where the birds were sparse but we enjoyed nice looks at our first White-tipped Quetzal. Some small flocks eventually materialized and we got to enjoy Rusty-headed and Streak-capped Spinetails, the latter nest-building, along with several Yellow-crowned Whitestarts. Paramo Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Chat-tyrant, “Santa Marta” Emerald Toucanet and Hermit Wood-wren (a recently split endemic) one by one came into our binocular views though an impromptu-calling Brown-rumped Tapaculo was only seen briefly by Joan. At mid-morning an immature Black-and-chestnut Eagle was spotted before we started descending towards the lodge, en route spending some time birding above the San Lorenzo research station. Here we were after one of the trickiest endemics, the Santa Marta Bush-tyrant which

Blue-naped Chlorophonia. El Dorado Lodge, Colombia. March 27, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

unfortunately was only heard. Nearby several Tyrian Metaltails were seen foraging on the bromeliads and Gisele spotted a perched White-rumped Hawk that allowed us superb views.

Back at the lodge for lunch and some relaxed birding in the gardens we caught up with the many hummingbirds at the feeders. Blue-naped Chlorophonias and a Band-tailed Guan enjoyed the bananas while Sierra Nevada Brushfinches and the resident Red-tailed Squirrels fed at the grain feeders.

Mid-afternoon saw us off on the Mirador trail to pick up some of the mid-elevation specialties. After noting our first White-lored Warblers near the compost it was predictably quiet as we started off into the forest. Eventually we came across a bit of activity including a pair of Golden-breasted Fruiteaters, spotted high in the trees. A Masked Trogon appeared to be nesting a little further on and on the way back to the lodge we came across several Black-hooded Thrushes and an obliging Gray-throated Leaftosser in a dry streambed.

After dinner we were treated to a couple mammals coming into a canopy banana feeder outside the lodge with both Night Monkeys and a Kinkajou present.

March 28 – With a few higher elevation specialties still missing we decided to drive upslope again for the morning though we didn’t go all the way to the ridge. We started a bit earlier to give ourselves a chance to try for Santa Marta Screech-owl near the research station before first light. However, we didn’t have to wait that long as one flew through the headlights of the front vehicle about 20mins after leaving the lodge. We piled out and spent a frustrating 15 minutes trying to spot it as it called back at us but would not come into view.

After daylight broke we started birding where we had heard the Bush-tyrant the day before but alas, it was not to be as we didn’t even hear it. We enjoyed further views of many of the birds we had seen the day before as we wandered back down towards the research station. Sickle-winged Guan, a migrant Sharp-shinned Hawk and Strong-billed Woodcreeper were new for the trip. At 9am we arrived at the research station to witness the feeding of the Santa Marta Antpitta and it was a

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The endemic Sierra Nevada Brushfinch. El Dorado Lodge, Colombia. March 28, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

matter of seconds after the worms were put out that we were watching this shy denizen of the Sierra Nevada as it hastily gorged itself before hopping off into the undergrowth.

As we would be departing after lunch for the lower elevation of Minca we spent a couple hours pre-lunch birding in the gardens around the lodge again. This proved productive as we found a Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush and “Bangs’” Grey-breasted Wood-wren on the compost heap and Ken briefly had the Black-fronted Wood-quail at the grain feeder. Our diligence at the hummingbird feeders finally paid off as a male Lazuline Sabrewing and female White-tailed Starfrontlet put in several appearances.

After lunch we began the long haul down the mountainside making several birding

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Roosting Black-and-white Owl. Minca, Colombia. March 28, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

stops en route. These were quite productive and we enjoyed cracking views of Santa Marta Tapaculo and Rusty-breasted Antpitta before we were denied views of a shy Santa Marta Foliage-gleaner calling from the shrubbery below us. A female Coppery Emerald was visiting the flowers at the Ecotienda when we arrived. Further down we again had no luck with the Santa Marta Antbird but did see our first Black-headed Tanager before finishing the drive down to the Hotel Minca.

March 29 – We started the morning below the Hotel Minca at a little side road that passes opposite to some slopes where Military Macaws roost. Sure enough, we could hear them as we walked down to the viewpoint and we were able to scope them for a while before they all flew off to forage. Here we enjoyed great looks at Whooping Motmots, Black-chested Jays, a troop of Keel-billed Toucans and a migrant Yellow-throated Vireo way up at the top of a bare tree. After breakfast back at the hotel we drove above Minca where we birded a couple little side roads. Here we saw a Rufous-tailed Jacamars, Pale-eyed Pygmy-tyrants and both Black-striped and Golden-winged Sparrows in the undergrowth though we could not call in a vocal Rosy Thrush-tanager. An adult King Vulture soared overhead and a little while later

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Glaucous Tanager. Guajira Desert, Colombia. March 29, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

so did a group of four graceful Swallow-tailed Kites.

After an early lunch we packed up and started the drive northeast to the Guajira Desert near Riohacha. Mid-afternoon saw us arriving at the toll booth that more or less marks the beginning of the Guajira. The toll booth itself was so birdy we ended up spending 20 minutes there picking up our first Green-rumped Parrotlets, Glaucous Tanagers and Black-crested Antshrike. At a side road just past the tollbooth we met our local guide, Jhonis of Tocuyo Birding who led us down a birdy path in search of one of the top targets of the region, Tocuyo Sparrow. Although we only caught one brief glimpse of the bird we found many other new birds for the trip such as Rufous-vented

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Black-crested Antshrike. Guajira Desert. Colombia. March 29, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Chachalacas, Buff-breasted Wren and many flyover Bare-eyed Pigeons. A surprise was a very confiding adult Bicolored Hawk that we watched for several minutes as it perched up at the top of a bare tree. Back near the vehicles a flowering tree had at least one Sapphire-throated Hummingbird at it.

As we neared Riohacha and dusk was setting in we stopped at a dry pasture where we saw 20 Double-striped Thick-knees loafing about.

March 30 – Birding the Guajira desert is always a pleasure as activity is usually steady and the dry scrub affords good views of the birds. Today was no exception and we met Jhonis at Camarones from where he took us along a meandering set of trails that culminated at a Wayuu (the local indigenous group) community. As we were eating our field breakfast at the vehicles Johnis picked out our first of several female

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Vermilion Cardinal. Guajira Desert, Colombia. March 30, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

Vermilion Cardinals. Shortly after starting our walk we arrived at a watering hole and here we found a nice little pocket of activity including our first Pileated Finches, Black-faced Grassquit, White-whiskered Spinetail and Slender-billed Inezia (Tyrannutet). A Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant was not terribly confiding and only some in the group got on it. A Harris’ Hawk provided a brief distraction before our first Russet-throated Puffbird of the day was spotted. Carrying on we eventually all got on some scurrying Crested Bobwhites. A small flowering bush briefly held a Buffy Hummingbird but a singing Orinocan Saltator immediately tempted us away. Unfortunately we would not end up seeing the Saltator despite hearing it again as well as at our next birding stop. After a couple hours of fine birding several in the group bought hand-made bags in the Wayuu community, of which a beautiful selection were put on display at the makeshift tienda.

Heading west we spent an hour and a half birding the Cari Cari road, alas this back-up spot for Tocuyo Sparrow proved barren but we enjoyed some other nice birds, especially once we arrived at a series of wetlands and ponds. Here we got nice scope views of a Dwarf Cuckoo along with a couple Pearl Kites, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher and many waterbirds such as Glossy Ibis, a Great Blue Heron and a few flocks of Black-bellied Whistling Ducks.

Happy group in the Guajira Desert of Colombia. March 30, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

As we had a long drive ahead of us to get to the Perija Mountains for the night we had to depart at 10:30. After lunch en route we finally arrived at the foot of the mountains around 4pm. We had time for one birding stop as we ascended and here we saw a couple leking Lazuline Sabrewings and got our first glimpse at Yellow-breasted (Black-fronted) Brushfinch though not the hoped for Perija Brushfinch. After a long haul up the bumpy road we at last arrived at the lodge at 7:15pm.

March 31 – As dawn arrived at the lodge we enjoyed the multitude of Amethyst-throated Sunangels at the hummingbird feeders as well as a brief Lachrimos Mountain-tanager before driving up to the Paramo. Once above tree line our patience was rewarded with superb views of a couple Perija Thistletails and brief looks at a female Perija Metailtail. Most of the group eventually got on Streak-backed Canastero that was picked out on two separate occasions by Gwen! Driving back

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Perija Metaltail. Chamicero de Perija Reserve, Colombia. March 31, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

down a little ways those in the second vehicle got looks at a male Perija Metaltail perched beside the road. We then had a frustrating experience trying to spot a furtive Perija Antpitta, which circled around us but only provided fleeting glimpses in the undergrowth. Golden-headed Quetzals and Emerald Toucanets provided a splash of color and a Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant was briefly spotted before we returned to the lodge for lunch.

In the afternoon we walked down the road from the lodge, coaxing a Perija Tapaculo into view along with a rather uncooperative Gray-breasted Wood-wren (of the endemic manastrae subspecies). We eventually got decent looks at Rufous Spinetail, another endemic subspecies and potential future split, as a few were encountered foraging in the bamboo and tangles at the roadside.

Disappointingly, the weather remained overcast and at times misty so we did not have favourable conditions to spot a soaring Andean Condor, this being one of the most reliable spots for this species in Colombia.

A brief owling jaunt below the lodge after dinner bore no fruit though Avery did hear a very distant White-throated Screech-owl as we walked back up to the lodge and a Band-winged Nightjar was heard by some.

April 1 – After breakfast we started the long drive back down the mountain. We made several birding stops en route seeing some excellent bird as we went. On one of our first stops we found a pair of delightful Rufous-crowned Tody-flycatchers, certainly one of the showiest flycatchers. A little further down we ran into a Yellow-throated Toucan, foraging in a fruiting tree. Much to our shock, through an opening

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Rufous-crowned Tody-flycatcher. Chamicero de Perija Reserve. Colombia. April 1, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

in the canopy a large bird soaring overhead turned into a juvenile Brown Pelican of all things! Not what one expects at over 2000m in the mountains, though as the Pelican flies we were not THAT far from the coast.

Our drivers knew the spots for a couple of the remaining targets and in quick order Luis, who was the most knowledgeable about birds, showed us Perija Burshfinch and a very obliging Klage’s Antbird. While much of the bamboo in the area was seeding the only semi-bamboo specialist we saw were a pair of Dull-colored Grassquits. Unfortunately it was not the season for flowering Guama trees so we dipped on the Rufous-shafted Woodstar that I had seen at a tree by the roadside on my 2015 visit.

As we neared the bottom of the road we made one last stop to try for Golden-winged Sparrow as not everyone had seen it near Minca. We were not disappointed as one posed for us at just a few metres distance, a striking bird to finish our time in the north with!
After a late lunch at the Valledupar airport we flew back to Bogota where we spent the night.

April 2 – Traffic en route to La Florida Park was exceptionally bad, even for Bogota and we did not arrive until 7:15. Fortunately, our abbreviated time here was not a hindrance. Once through the gate we birded our way out to the blind that looks out over the reed beds at one end of the lake. After 15 minutes we were treated to a nice display from a confiding Bogota Rail that walked out in the open and remained there for 30 seconds or so before meandering back into the reeds. As we walked back towards the parking lot a Silvery-throated Spinetail surprised us by calling behind us. In short order we were able to get looks at it perched up near the top of the nearby shrubs. Songbirds seemed unusually scarce though a group of Andean Siskins feeding in the grasses showed well. At the last minute we finally spotted a Spot-flanked Gallinule lurking along the near shore where we had just walked from. Back in the vehicle we transferred to the airport for our flight to Puerto Inirida and the final leg of the tour.

Puerto Inirida is the newest hotspot for birding in Colombia and it did not disappoint! Our local guide, the excellent Daniel Camilo Orjuela met us at the airport and after checking in to our beautiful hotel we had lunch at a local restaurant that, despite its unassuming visage, served up perhaps the best food of the trip. Mid-afternoon saw us at the nearby Caño Culebra trail (about 15 minutes from town)

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Spotted Puffbird. Puerto Inirida, Colombia. April 2, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

where we started off with a primate, a single Collared Titi watching us from the forest beside the trail. Activity was light at first in the mid-afternoon heat but several Swallow-winged Puffbirds were perched out atop bare snags and Daniel soon picked out a pair of Red-shouldered Tanagers for us. After a bit of Playback we got excellent views of a Spotted Puffbird that was followed by our first White Sands specialty, a fine male Black Manakin. A migrant Variegated Flycatcher was a nice surprise as were 2 Broad-winged Hawks circling overhead. Daniel picked out a Rufous-crowned Elaenia that posed well in the scope and our only Amazonian Antshrike of the trip soon followed. As it came time to return to the vehicles we spotted a pair of flycatching Brown Jacamars. Back at the vehicles dusk was setting in and we were treated to a few Least Nighthawks hawking insects overhead.

April 3 – Our first full day in Puerto Inirida was much anticipated and it did not disappoint. Our destination for the day was the Sabanitas community, a 20 minute drive from our hotel. In the community itself we caught up with our first Bare-necked Fruitcrow before heading out along the Caño Carbon trail. This area is all excellent White Sands forest and holds many of the specialties of this localized habitat. The trail starts in cleared scrub before passing through a short section of forest, another clearing then more contiguous forest.

At the first forest patch we got nice looks at Orinoco Piculet and a pair of Cherrie’s Antwrens. On the far side of the next clearing we had a fantastic half hour as the specialties came rolling through. A Golden-spangled Piculet kicked things off before Daniel got us on an Azure-naped Jay. This was followed by a sunning Purplish Jacamar and before we could finish properly admiring it he had a Pale-bellied Mourner lined up for us! Scanning a little further back to the distant treetops we were able to scope White-tipped Purpletuft and a very distant male Pompadour Cotinga. To round off this whirlwind of great birds a Tiny Hawk was spotted perched out in the bare branches of a tree 100m or so away. The rest of the trail was well forested and we ran into a couple small canopy flocks were we found our Spot-backed Antwrens along with more widespread birds like Gilded Barbet and Ivory-

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Bronzy Jacamar. Puerto Inirida. Colombia. April 3, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

billed Aracari and singles of the scarce Yellow-throated Woodpecker and Black-bellied Cuckoo. In the understory we had a showy Imeri Warbling-Antbird as well as a Brown-winged Schiffornis. We had been hoping for the bizarre Capuchinbird along this trail but did not get a whiff of one, the only disappointment on an otherwise superb day. As we walked back to the community for lunch we added Paradise Jacamar, White-crowned Manakin and Daniel’s persistence was rewarded with scope views for the group of a tiny Dwarf-tyrant-manakin to go along with another miniscule creature, the Short-tailed Pygmy-tyrant that we had spotted earlier. This

A mid-morning break in the white sands forests at Sabanitas, Puerto Inirida, Colombia. April 3, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

latter is the smallest songbird in the world at only 2.5 inches!

Back in Sabanitas we were treated to a local lunch of fish and several variations of yucca prepared by one of the indigenous women in the community. After relaxing for a bit (some of us took advantage of the hammocks that were strung up for us!) we walked a little ways along the entrance road to a small side trail that led into a patch of very dense low secondary scrub that was flooded once we had advanced 50m or so. This unique habitat is home to the Yapacana Antbird, a species known from just a few isolated locations near the confluence of eastern Colombia, northwest Brazil and southern Venezuela. The habitat was not conducive to getting good looks at anything more than a metre away but we ended up getting on a male of this very rare bird.

The rest of the afternoon was spent along the road where we found several new additions to the trip including Swainson’s Flycatcher and Black Caracara. Parrots were well represented flying over and we had a couple trios of Black-headed Parrot as well as three species of Macaw – Blue-and-Yellow, Scarlet and Red-and-Green.

April 4 – For the first time since arriving in Puerto Inirida we were on the water today, transported down the Inirida River to the Matraca trail, about 15 minutes downstream from town. Daniel had a comfortable boat with cushioned seated and a plastic roof to provide shade lined up for us. In contrast to our birding up to this point, this morning we were in seasonally flooded Varzea forest (dry at this season) which held a different selection of species than the White Sands forest.

A male Amazonian Black Tyrant greeted us as we disembarked but activity was light for the first hour or so. During this time we came across our first Blackish-gray Antshrikes, Black-chinned Antbirds and a pair a Pink-throated Becards building their nest. A singing Cocoa Thrush came in to Daniel’s tape but remained elusive, never perching within sight. Up ahead some soft churring caught Daniel’s attention, “Orinoco Softtail!” he exclaimed. We were soon watching three of these extremely

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Ringed Woodpecker. Puerto Inirida, Colombia. April 4, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

range restricted furnariids chasing each other about the undergrowth coming within a couple metres of us! Another obliging furnariid was a Cinnamon-rumped Foliage-gleaner that entertained us with its head weaving display as it gave its seemingly never-ending trill from an open perch in the understory.

At a small clearing a calling Ferruginous Pygmy-owl attracted in a whole entourage of birds including our first Golden-bellied Euphonias, Yellow-bellied Dacnis and another White-tipped Purpletuft. Several hummingbirds were in attendance, including both White-chinned and the rarer Rufous-throated Sapphires (we would also add Blue-chinned Sapphire at a flowering bush shortly afterwards!). Nearby a White-necked Puffbird and Blue-crowned Trogon showed nicely. Carrying on we got scope views of a pair of Orange-cheeked Parrots feeding quietly in the canopy, a fine Ringed Woodpecker and a female Green-tailed Jacamar perched together on a hanging vine with her young.

Again Daniel picked out a special bird singing behind us so we back-tracked a bit and soon could hear the repeated phrases of a Rose-breasted Chat singing overhead. Unfortunately only Avery got on the bird before it disappeared, not to be heard from again. By now it was late morning and it was time for us to turn around. The birds weren’t finished with us yet though and we were delighted to see a superb Collared Puffbird on a small side trail. Speckled Spinetail, Helmeted Pygmy-tyrant and a flock

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Collared Puffbird. Puerto Inirida. Colombia. April 4, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

of Velvet-fronted Grackles rounded out an excellent morning of birding!

In the afternoon we were back in the boat heading north from town along the Inirida river, then west on the Guaviare to a site called La Rompida. En route we enjoyed waterbirds such as Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns, White-winged Swallows and good numbers of herons and egrets. La Rompida is the site for another local specialty. A couple years ago a mystery Antshrike was discovered in the Inirida area, on which genetic work is currently being undertaken to determine if it is a new species or a disjunct population of Chestnut-backed Antshrike (not otherwise known from Colombia). Recently, Daniel found a population at this site, where they apparently are quite common.

We started with a family of Collared Plovers and a lone Pied Plover on the shore followed by a quick jaunt to the grassy margins at the back of the beach where we spotted a couple roosting Ladder-tailed Nightjars along with a Burrowing Owl. Carrying on we soon had the bizarre White-eared Jacamar lined up in the scope and our first Amazonian Umbrellabird in a fruiting tree. After crossing a small stream, either via a precarious bridge or (more sensibly!) in a small dugout canoe, we walked along the margin of it to where Daniel got us on a very obliging male of the mystery Antshrike. In the same area we also enjoyed a pair of Rusty-backed Spinetails, a Little Cuckoo and our 9th, and final, Puffbird species of the trip, the diminutive Chestnut-capped Puffbird. The day concluded with sunset and watermelon on the beach while Black Skimmers and a mixed martin flock that included migrant Purple and Brown-chested Martins commuted along the river.

April 5 – This was a day with long periods spent on the water but we started with a short trip across the river to the El Paujil trail. Like the Matraca trail yesterday, this was an area of Varzea and held many of the same birds as well as several new ones. We started with a pair of Amazonian Streaked-antwrens in the scrub of a nearly dry streambed before a Cream-colored Woodpecker flew in overhead. We then played hide-and-seek with a responsive Varzea Schiffornis that eventually was seen by everyone as it darted about the understory. At a small clearing Daniel got us on a confiding Blue-throated Piping-guan in a nearby tree. Here we also scoped a Long-billed Woodcreeper and eventually got on a calling Cinnamon Attila.

Arriving at a small stream we called in a pair of Dot-backed Antwrens. Daniel then heard a Rose-breasted Chat calling again in the distance so we rushed over to it but it had gone silent and, frustratingly, we were not able to relocate it. We did get some consolation in the form of a Yellow-crowned Elaenia that posed for several minutes

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Green-tailed Jacamar. Puerto Inirida. Colombia. April 5, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

just 5m from us. This species was only recently confirmed to occur in Colombia but seems not uncommon in the area. One of the main reasons for birding this trail was that Wire-tailed Manakins lek nearby and while we did not see any lekking, we did get to enjoy a superb male on a couple occasions. Here we also got quick looks at a foraging Black-throated Hermit.

Mid-morning saw us back in the boat and zipping south down the Inirida River en route to the Cerros de Mavicure, bare granite mountains (after a fashion) that are typical of the Guianan shield. Along the way we saw many Muscovy Ducks and stopped for a Bat Falcon that was perched atop a snag. As we reached the base of the impressive cerros we pulled in to the dock at the indigenous village of El Remanso. Here we enjoyed another nice lunch before boating down a further 5 minutes to a beach with a fine view of the rounded peaks. The cerros result in a narrowing of the river which created some rapids and this in turned provided habitat for Black-

Cerros de Mavicure, Colombia. April 5, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

collared Swallows that were nesting in the boulders alongside the beach. A Capped Heron was spotted across the river, our only one of the trip. Daniel has documented nesting of Orange-breasted Falcon on the cerros and sure enough, he spotted one circling way up by the top of one of the cerros.

It was mid-day and the birding was slow so, having enjoyed the impressive landscape, we headed back towards town. As we neared civilization we pulled in to a small side stream called Caño Cunuben where Daniel assured us there would be Hoatzin. Sure enough there was a large group of them in the riverside shrubbery. Lost in the excitement of these prehistoric-looking birds was an Amazonian Tyrannulet that was only seen by Daniel and Avery. Once we had had our fill we turned our attention to an oropendola colony in a tree right over the river. Here we noted a few Olive Oropendolas among the many Crested. We were hoping for Sungrebe but we had to make do with our only Slate-colored Hawk, Red-capped Cardinals and Thrush-like Wrens of the trip.

This evening Daniel had arranged a treat for us, an indigenous dance performance put on by a local professor and three generations of his family! It included several local, hand-crafted instruments and impressive body paint.

April 6 – Our last morning of birding for this tour saw us return to the White Sands forest at the Caño Vitina community. En route we stopped off at a spot where Daniel regularly has White-naped Seedeater. Unfortunately, though it was heard singing in the distance we would dip on this white sands specialty. In the area we did spot several Plain-crested Elaenias as well as both Black-faced and Burnished-buff Tanagers. A couple calling Russet-crowned Crakes prompted us to take on the near-futile task of trying to see one in the dense roadside vegetation (Daniel and Ken got glimpses).

At the Caño Vitina community we were treated to a splendid Green-and-rufous Kingfisher at the bridge right in the village. Shortly afterwards we spied a female Spangled Cotinga in a bare tree. A single Yellow-green Grosbeak and Black-eared Fairy briefly came through while at a small pond we finally all got on a Green-tailed Goldenthroat. A flyover female Pompadour Cotinga prompted us to return to scanning the distant treetops and we eventually all got scope views of a male Pompadour as well as a male Spangled Cotinga. Our last order of business was to try for Yellow-crowned Manakin at a little forest patch, one of the final White Sands specialties we were missing. However, despite hearing one calling from the forest we were not able to locate it and we had to make do with a consolation White-eyed Tody-tyrant. A vocal Yellow-throated Flycatcher perched beside the track as we

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Maguari Stork. Puerto Inirida. Colombia. April 6, 2019. Photo: Avery Bartels.

arrived at the community was a pleasant finish to a sweltering, though productive morning.

One final treat was awaiting us as we drove back to our hotel – a majestic Maguari Stork at a small wetland beside the road! Back at the hotel we had an early lunch and packed our bags in preparation for the flight back to Bogota. Once in the capital we had our final group dinner though the majority of us would do some post tour birding the following day before our evening flights home.

By Avery Bartels

Tales and photographs of the adventures of Avocet Tours